97 Jeep Wrangler

JeepRox

New member
I have an issue with my Jeep. I have had a lot done to the jeep. The last time I took it into the shop for an oil change, he tightened my manifold messed with my heater and changed my fuel pump etc...now when I start the jeep on the initial start in the morning it acts like it is going to cut out until it warms up and oil starts circulating etc...Why would this be so sudden? I called the same person that has done the work prior and he said that it could be my coolant sensor. I also realize this could be one of the O2 Sensors. Could I get an opinion on this?
 

Check for any loose vacuum lines that could have been disturbed when the manifold was getting re torqued. I would suspect that the SES lamp would turn on if the ECT and or the O2 sensor is failing.
 
Thanks I was thinking that too....mechanics think I don't really know anything because I'm female..that is why I thought I would get some opinions.
 

It's a bigger issue than that I think it is the distributer cap, wires etc..it would not even start this morning after a half hour it finally started..
 
Cap rotor wires etc is NOT a big deal at all!!! Normal maintenance items esp if you either (1) are still running the originals on a 97 anything (13 years old!--car MODEL-year anyways; the 2010s are in the showrooms) or (2) replaced them with the "cheap stuff"
 
Roxy-

Not starting can also be a fuel pump issue. From your 1st post it looks like the pump was just changed but maybe the new pump is bad or something is wrong with the connection. What happens is the pump doesn’t put out enough pressure to pop the ball in the injector; it usually shows up as a problem on first start until everything gets warmed up and expands. Also, maybe a clogged fuel filter could cause similar symptoms. Did the shop give you the old parts so you know the pump was changed?
 

Process of elimination. As previously noted by Don and Kriss, Perform your normal maintainance inspection and replace them as nescessary. When the engine cranks but not start, check for spark and fuel pressure. Gather up symptoms as you go so that we can narrow it down to the best possible cause.
 
Cap rotor wires etc is NOT a big deal at all!!! Normal maintenance items esp if you either (1) are still running the originals on a 97 anything (13 years old!--car MODEL-year anyways; the 2010s are in the showrooms) or (2) replaced them with the "cheap stuff"



My Jeep gets the top mechanical work. Of course it's not the original freaking parts. I Happen to like my 97 Jeep Wrangler and that is why I have put so much time and money into it. Thanks for your cheap comments. The Cap / Wires were just changed last year..so it's possible it could be that. Don't offer me any more comments.
 
Roxy-

Not starting can also be a fuel pump issue. From your 1st post it looks like the pump was just changed but maybe the new pump is bad or something is wrong with the connection. What happens is the pump doesn’t put out enough pressure to pop the ball in the injector; it usually shows up as a problem on first start until everything gets warmed up and expands. Also, maybe a clogged fuel filter could cause similar symptoms. Did the shop give you the old parts so you know the pump was changed?


I saw them so I know he changed them.
 

Process of elimination. As previously noted by Don and Kriss, Perform your normal maintainance inspection and replace them as nescessary. When the engine cranks but not start, check for spark and fuel pressure. Gather up symptoms as you go so that we can narrow it down to the best possible cause.


I did all that. I took it back to the shop yesterday. I am having the mechanic go over the Distributor Cap/Wires/ Check my plugs to make sure I did not blow one out...etc..thanks for your
help everyone.
 
Damn computer.... I was in the process of putting up another answer to this thread and the thing decides to "configure updates" and reboot itself; losing what I started, so now I gotta do it all over again!

Back on topic; Roxy, BACK UP THE TRUCK!!! You come here asking us to help you figure out a problem with your Jeep. Suggestions are offered and you play us for fools, because you don't like our answers. I do not know you, have never seen your Jeep, do not know your mechanic, nor what he's done/whether he knows what he's doing, etc. IDK what engine you have, whether stock or modded,how many miles, or a host of other possibilities that determine whether I solve your problem 1st try.
Parts, how ever new, or expensive, or how recently replaced, can be "defective"; especially these days when we cant even buy American made stuff hardly any more. (I have a post on that subject in the Cherokee section)

But I have another idea as to what your problem is; you wanna hear it, or do you wanna go pouting and shouting??? you did tell me not to post anymore because you did not "like" my 1st suggestion. But I will anyway; what I have to say may actually help somebody ELSE along the way; someone that appreciates the info.

I also have a 97 Wrangler. Stock 4.0/stick. 91K miles. I had a similar problem with it too about 4-5 months ago. This is gonna get LONG, since I will also provide some back ground that helped me find the trouble, something that you should have done too, in your original post.

In my case, I had to park my Wrangler for about 18 months. I was severely hurt, almost lost my right foot, so while I was in a brace, I was under Dr's orders NOT to drive anything with a stick. (yes that did pizz me off; I much prefer sticks over autos) During this time I started my Jeep at least 2X/month, and I did put plenty of STA-BIL in the gas early on when I found out it might sit a while. During the "sitting period" I even drained the tank completely and burned that gas in my Cherokee. I put 5 gallons of fresh in there with more STA BIL in case it had to be moved out of the garage.

Upon getting it back out, I noticed right away that it was hard to start. I couldn't remember for sure but I seem to think it was starting this issue a lil before I got hurt, too.
Along with all new belts, hoses, and tune up parts (maint items it needed anyways) I put a new fuel pump into it, because of the hard start.
I did not replace the whole module but just the pump, since the gas gauge still worked, and just the pump was about 1/3 the cost of the module. (and being on disability as I am, every dollar saved is important)
Well no improvement. So I borrowed a fuel pressure test gauge from a buddy that worked in a dealer (thanks to a suggestion right here on this forum) and found the real problem, in about 10 minutes. A part that would have been included with the pump module assembly was bad. I started the Jeep, ran it long enough for fuel pressure to "max-out" and shut it off. Soon as I did so I lost my pressure in the line. This should hold for at least 10 minutes before starting to bleed down. (now itll hold overnight!) I know since I did the pressure test after and left the gauge hooked up for a while.
I don't know if you know this or not, but there is no inline "fuel filter" in the traditional sense on these. The filter is part of the regulator assembly on top of the tank. Locally, I found this to be a dealer only item, and the price of that,+ the price of the pump that I already put in, would have exceeded the cost of the pump module assembly.
There is a guy on Ebay that sells these regulators for ~$40.

so, the cost of the pump+the cost of the regulator via Ebay, and I solved my problem; and still came out "cheap". while still doing the job right, and w/o cutting any corners. And it was good that I did put the pump in, since I found the strainer floatin--instead of being attached to the pump, as it should have been.
This was the 1st time I had removed the tank, and being that it only had 19K on it when I got it, at only 3 years old.
I doubt the tank had been removed, before the Jeep was mine. I did wind up having to pull the tank a 2nd time to put that filter/regulator in, but so what. (like I said; my own time costs me nothing)

and that regulator/filter? Came in a "white box" with no brand name on it, just a part number and "made in USA" stamped onto it. When I opened it up, I was surprised to find the Chrysler Pentastar and the same part number as the original part stamped on the new piece. Same lettering "font" and all as the original part. so it was a genuine Mopar part even. (the stealership wanted $120-some for this)

So, hold off on bashing suggestions offered on here, or don't ask for any more help. OK? If I don't personally SEE the part as it is being replaced, or do it myself, I don't know what was actually done. and even at that, like I said, even parts that were once new do go bad. Did they change the whole assembly or just the pump itself? see? there may be more info needed to tell you where your problem may be. I spent 18 years turning wrenches for a living. so I definitely know my way around a vehicle!
 
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Dude, I can handle any kind of bashing you want to throw. Just don't be ignorant about it. I have helped put 4 engines in vehicles and my first job was in a garage. I'm not stupid and I test out the mechanics I hire. Where I live I do not have a garage and cannot do the work on it myself. My brother is a mechanic and has taught me a lot. Put whatever suggestions about my 97 as you stated 13 YEAR OLD vehicle on here you wish.
 
Cap rotor wires etc is NOT a big deal at all!!! Normal maintenance items esp if you either (1) are still running the originals on a 97 anything (13 years old!--car MODEL-year anyways; the 2010s are in the showrooms) or (2) replaced them with the "cheap stuff"

okay speaking of back up the train. Don, I think you need to re-read your initial post above. It was very condescending. You say because Roxy didn't like the responses she got, she played you all for fools. That is NOT true. I didn't like your answer either. It was rude and unnecessary and basically you insinuated that SHE was the fool. I mean really -- running the original cap rotor and wires on a 97?? come on, you know that's highly unlikely. So in making that statement you accused her of not properly maintaining her vehicle and if she did replace those things she was just too cheap to buy good stuff to do a tune up so that just HAS to be her problem. That was NOT necessary at all. I know that a lot of times when we write things in a post its hard to detect emotion and sometimes people can misunderstand. However there is no misunderstanding from the later part of your statement. You made a very blatent assumption of Roxy's ability to maintain her Jeep without any facts to support it.

Sometimes it pays to take a little time to read and re-read a post before pushing the "submit" button. Think about how it might make someone feel.

I just wanted to make you aware that Roxy wasn't the ONLY one who felt this way about your post.

Let's continue to help each other and be kind. That is why we are all a part of this really cool forum. Each one of us has something unique to contribute. ;)
 
I would agree with your mechanic in some respects. if your coolant sensor is bad, grounding out, it will read hot when the motor is actually cold, leaning your fuel out, if the sensor is getting false positive reading, it will think your motor is running real cold and will increase the fuel to get the motor to heat up quicker, under throttle, should not be an issue, but at idle, will cause the motor to flood and stall. Your collant sensor sounds like it is grounding out, it is a $10 part, change it yourself and see if it fixed your issue
 

Thanks everyone for offering your opinions. Greatly appreciated.
 
I didn't mean to offend anyone; but in the post just above mine Roxy had said that she thought it was a "bigger deal" that it may be the cap n rotor. so I was just trying to ease her a bit that they really aren't. and again, not knowing that particular Jeep, I certainly dont know it's history.

That said (this goes for everybody) when posting about a problem and possible causes, a lil back ground (just bought, problem started after something else was done, etc) as well as engine size and whether their vehicle has any mods that may have to do with zeroing in on the problem in your info request.

and if you get an answer that either you've already verified NOT to be the problem, or that don't seem likely as a cause, remember that other than reading each other's posts here, we really dont know each other beyond reading what they post here; and not knowing the other person's know how or ability, don't be so quick to "jump" on them!
 
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Don't take it that way; I never ever dreamed this would turn into a battle with a determination of who "won" and who "lost"!
 
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