83 cj7, 4.2 / t15, 11" clutch or 10 1/2?

mackdogman

New member
I have a 83 CJ7 with a 4.2. The thing is when I traded for this jeep a few months ago it had a slight knock in the motor & could tell the guy had siliconed the crap out of the trans & t case mounting surface. Well long story short I built the engine and went through the trans & t case (T15 & D20). All is good to go except a new clutch. The one I took out of it was rigged some how. The flywheel & pressure plate surface was scared up on purpose. My guess is to make it grab long enough to trade. The problem I have is everywhere parts store I look they have a 10.5" disc. The one that came out of it was a 11" disc. Should I use what it calls for or is a 11" an upgrade?
Thanks for any help.
 

I would replace it with what came out of it. the 11" would be a bit stronger than the 10-1/2", and I would have the flywheel resurfaced. I think the 11" was used in earlier years, either one will work fine. I just looked at morris 4x4 centers webpage and it shows 11" clutch for 80-83 cj. I would recheck your stores and tell them to look again.
 
Last edited:
I like what 69jeepcj said.......... He's right, you can use either the 10.5 or the 11". I just went through a similar problem with my 86 CJ7 when a bought a 258 from a 80 CJ7 as a engine rebuild project. As long as the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel and your pilot bearing match the input shaft, the choice is yours.
 
Thats what I was thinking also. I work at a big truck dealership. I already turned my flywheel, when I was pulling the crank out to replace bearings I noticed someone tried to pull the old pilot bearing out but gave up half way. You win some & lose some when you trade. With all the work I have done I still don't think I have lost anything. Thanks for you guys input.
 

Not sure what you traded to get your CJ7? But I looked at your intro post and the tub looks in good shape (barring the paint coming off). You're off to a great start with the engine and trans. IMO..... You have a blank canvus ready for you to create a mater piece!
 
Thanks. The tub has a little rust like normal but will fix all that before putting the body back on. I plan on doing a spring over axle setup and take the long shackles off. I also plan on moving the shackles on the steer axle to the rear to make it more stable and less stress on the steering gear.
I traded my 2003 Suzuki street bike for the jeep. I didn't have but 2grand in the bike. After getting pulled over at 43 years old for speeding I figured its time to start playing on 4 wheels instead of 2. I also traded my dirt bike for a 4 wheeler lol imagine that.
 
One more question on the clutch. The throw out bearing that came out of it was the kind that was round & a groove in it for the fork. I am looking at a 11" clutch but it has a bearing with clips on it. Will either work or just go back with what was in it like you guys said?
 
What year is the trans from? I believe there are two different style of forks 72-75 and 76-86? You mentioned a D20 transfer case which would be from an earlier model Jeep, right? Regardless, the forks can be inter-changed if needed. I would buy my pressure plate, disk and bearings as a set.
 
Yes On the D20 but the T15 trans had the round no clip style but I also have a T14 Im going back with that had the clip style. Bot the T14 & T15 had the same style forks. Im pretty sure either will work also I just like to do it right the first time. The T15 only needs a shifter rod & shift tower. The previous owner welded on both trying to rig it to work. I have the tower fixed but I spent a couple hours with a file on the stick end were it moves the shift rails & it keeps getting 2 gears locked in at the same time. The local used jeep guy wanted $250 for a old but good tower & stick for the T15 but found a T14 with another D20 attached for $150 via CL so I went with it. The sad part is neither person know what year Jeep the trans come out of but from research I would say both were mid 70's Jeeps.
 
Back
Top