81 CJU7 Fuel injection install underway

8177

8177

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Boy oh boy oh boy. I gots goodies. Starter solenoid and the Howell TBI kit. Installed the Solenoid and no fires started up and when turning over I have spark. Jeep Prep underway. But I'm done for the night. Attached the intake adapter and sealed up the bolt holes used to secure the plate to the intake. First input for instruction improvements. Show how the adapter mounts. It will go on two ways. a wrong and a right. I had to compare bolt holes on the throttle body to find out. A pic would have saved me a minute or two.
Jim

Ok, I was a little excited and had a fat finger typing moment..... again
 
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The exhaust Manifold Came in. It had two exhaust gaskets. I just bought a gasket kit that had an exhaust and an intake gasket. oarts dude said to use both metal backed exhausts and not the fiber intake exhaust. I have doubleed up on exhaust gaskets when there was an issue withbeing flat. What now
 
I have never double exhaust or intake gaskets. Or heard of doing that. I would slap it together with only one gasket
 
I have only doubled up when the exhaust manifold was warped. I just used one this time.

Well who would have thought that I would need new exhaust and intake manifold bolts. that certainly threw a wrench in the gears last night. Just barely had enough to hold them in place till I get more. I wonder what else I'll run into. I did manage to get the fuel pump blank-off on. Needed different bolts for that to. Most folks probably wouldn't run into that problem because they didin't have Captain Caveman work on their jeep.
 

Shout out for more assistrance. This would be way easier if I wasnt changing so much at one time. I need a pic from the side of the intake manifold. Needs to be the set up where the intake and exhaust are not bolted together. I need a clue to how to wire a relay ( well I know relays very well, need the wire color code or pin location in the bulkhead connector) for the intake stove heater, and where the switch for that goes. I Could use some help on the names for the stove heater switch or a part number, and the two hoses that attach to the intake manifold. I think I have a P/N for the front (thermostat housing to intake) that will work but not the back intake to heater core. I don't want to spend the money on this thing like I am to throw some bulk heater hose on it. I'd like to keep it looking clean. Just can find the parts online.
 
Are you asking what the part #'s are for the heater hoses? I normally just use bulk heater hose from the parts store and cut to fit......... As for the intake fuel heater, I'll need to look that up (unless someone knows off the top of thier heads?) Regardless, you will not need the intake heater for start up this time of year, unless you're in a very cold part of the world.


If I remember correctly, you bought an alumium intake from a newer 258 that you are retro'ing into the current setup? I would use whatever gasket came with the Injection system, but if you where going with a stock setup, you would use two gaskets. One is the larger flat gasket with the tewelve holes in it and a thinner silicone look'in one that only seats around/under the intake (they are usually stapled together in the right position).
 

I was calling them the wrong name on my searches. That will help right there. thanks And yes the hoses I want are the stock or prebent heater hoses from the thremostat houseong or water pump to the front of the intake then out the back of the intake to the heater core. these come up at 90 degree angles and will majke my engine look like it has easter basket handles unless i have pre molded 90's bent in them. Cant leave them off. i know I don't need them in the desert but the smog guy will not like me leaving something off.
 
Don't need to buy a switch after all. One is in the Howell kit and I believe the wiring goes to and from the computer in the kit now. I found some part numbers with ploice monkey161's help though if anybody needs them. Still need help with p/ns for the rear molded manifold heater hose. Front if you just have it so I can compare what I have


Edit: Never mind. thats all to control the computer. I still need one and all the circuitry
 
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Lots went on today as far as looking for parts. For the manifold heater. I have to have it for the kit to keep its CARB EO Number on my vehicle.
I was passed on info by policemonkey 161 that allowed me to get a decent wiring diagram. a Part number for the relay I need and information to get a coolant temp switch with the right specs. Its a two wire not a 1 wire but all I need to do is run one of the leads to ground.

I was also able to get a molded heater hose from the water pump to the forward intake manifold tube and order the one for the back. This system has to work in order for me to pass smog visual.

I was able to bolt up the intake and exhaust manifolds and added the throttle body. I also added the FI kit temp sensor which is mounted in the intake manifold. I have some epoxy work on the vacuum/charcoal canister. But first I need to know if I attached a couple of hoses to the inputs is there a way to test the flapper valve in it. It also has to work for smog and I can not find one that fits.
 

As for the relay part #, you can go to any auto parts store or order it from Amazon. You want a SPDT 12VDC 30/40 relay or at least 15amps. I just looked on Amazon and found more than 5 under $5. If you don't have the temp. probe that is in the manifold closet to the firewall, you'll need it. This probe is a N/C and opens at 160 or 165. You can use any thermal switch with a "NPT" threaded base as long as it is 12 VDC and is Normally Closed and opens at 160-165 degrees.


The simplest way to explain the wiring of the manifold heater is (and bear with me, not all relays use the same numbers for the various poles):

1) a hot fused (15amps) wire from the battery goes to terminal 30 or the one side of the relay load.
2) one wire goes from terminal 87 or the "N/O" load side to the heater itself.
3) one comes from your oil pressure sending unit (trigger for relay) to terminal 86 or the A side of the coil.

4)The final wire runs from terminal 85 or the B side to the manifold temp switch. When the engine heats up over 160 or 165 (depending of which one is used) the temp switch opens and the circuit loses its ground= heater off.


Not sure if that is what your looking for? Keep in mind that with a stock set up, the manifold heater is completely seperate of the computer system. Not sure with your Howell setup?
 
Thanks, I found a good diagram and explanation of the operation building from the links you sent. Already have the relay and the coolant switch. Just need to wire it up.
 
Show of hands. How many thought I would be done today. Well I might have if I didn't have to drop the fuel tank. Had to take the line they were using for the evap canister to tank and make it the return line. Its probably how it was in the beginning. Then run a line for the evap canister. So the fuel portion is done. That was a long job. I have the computer installed over the heater like they suggested. And I have the wire harness pulled. hooking things up tomorrow. Was going to do the vac lines but the charcoal canister flapper is toast and charcoal will pour out. So ordered something I think will work. Cheers.
Jim
 
You have several!!!! Well Yes I need one. I ordered one that is close and I dread the Smog guy saying its not going to pass because of that. Can you PM me the details. Thanks
 
Almost done. Need to pick up some more Vac line and some T's. Need to hook up the power. Think I found a good spot on the fuse panel. I need an on in start and run. I think IGN LPS where the 3 amp fuse is will work. I don't want to go turning the key on and off checking for voltages with everything undone.
Need to buy a light socket to hook up the check engine light. While under the jeep today there was a wire hanging down. I don't know it I knocked it lose of it has been undone for a while. Its either black or brown and has an asbestos or what ever it is sleeve over it. Didn't investigate at all because I had my hands full. Need to find a jeep to look at the Power Steering pump. I don't remember how it went back on. I was more concerned with being able to get rid of the air pump.

And I ran into a snag on the manifold heater wiring. All done except for 1 wire. I am supposed to run the power so if the oil pressure switch if not getting pressure the heater will not turn on. Well I have a mechanical gage. Can't go for a replacement gage. sunk in too much money. So short of some fittings and adding another switch to a bunch of plumbing. Any other ideas.
 

I am beat. Its over 100 outside and all I need is a power source that is hot in run and start. My whole harness was butchered by one of the previous owners. Can someone tell me a place on the fuse panel that is hot in start and run. The panel is the only safe place to go. And I am dying out there. what I need is someone to tell me. I have looked everywhere but nothing is as it should be on this jeep
 
Oh praise The Lord ! I've waited for the day those very words will be posted ! I have been feeling somewhat unable to pull resources to be of any further help and felt if I posted another word , I would be just running my mouth with maybes. I felt that if I cannot get my own hands on your jeep with my own eyes , I just began to feel I should rightfully hope that a CJ owner with more experience with this jeep render assistance as I was only able to assist from a mechanical view and my experience from what previous and present jeep ownership I've had but never a CJ.
I never wanted to question your ability as I know it was always there but somehow knew it would come to tearing off the dash to root out the issues caused by its previous owner(s).
I want to say that I knew you can do it and am sorry you had to suffer (literally) through this build turned ordeal and the poor girl who must have cried over her husbands relentless effort to build his beloved wife a jeep she could be proud of , built with her husbands own two hands.
If you only knew what I felt reading you post and viewing " it's alive " , I just knew those words would appear soonest . Man , it hurt to read the posts of your suffering in this build and I got to the point where I began to ask myself , what can I offer not knowing the CJ like I know my XJ and once knew my SJ ('78 cherokee) . I want to say I am DAMN proud of you knowing you will beat it down and get it rolling again ! From this day on , you are a force to be reckoned with and NO ONE will ever know YOUR CJ as well as YOU do ! Jeep wrote the book on four wheel drive and you re tailored it to YOUR spec's . Damn proud , Jim , damn proud . Good show lad ! Greg
 
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