258 4.2L and 77 CJ5 Tires

[WVTechCJ5]

Wanna beef up my 258 4.2L cheap as possible, any ideas??
AND
I want to put a set of 15x10 Mickey Thompson Classic II's on it but not sure of what tire size to go with and put on. I just put a fiberglass body on and cut the rubber mounts at 2 & 1/4" to allow for compression as they say. But, i hear that the original mounts were only like 1" so that would give me a 1" lift on mine, right? Also, what tire size could i go with?

 

[WVTechCJ5]

I e-mailed edelbrock and they replied saying that they didn't make anything for my engine..... blah........ :? :?

 

[Snitty]

31" sounds about right

 

[WVTechCJ5]

well i was hopin i could go a little bit bigger, Iaybe some 32x12.5's???? Is it possible to do without trimming the fenders any? Since it is the brand new body, i would like to atleast go a while without trimming any on the body.

 

[84_CJ7]

You may want to consider the TFI upgrade and the Nutter bypass on your 258. It's cheap and gives you more power through gains in RPM and a hotter spark.

Scott

 

[WVTechCJ5]

I've never heard of the Nutter bypass? What is it, or could you tell me where I can get some info on it?

 

[84_CJ7]

I've never heard of the Nutter bypass? What is it, or could you tell me where I can get some info on it?

Here is a link to the original article http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/electrical/jn-ignition99/

I also posted the piece below a few days ago-

I finally did the Nutter Bypass. I had already converted to the TFI upgrade, removed emissions and installed a Weber so the ECM wasn't doing anything. For me it only involved making the disconnect of the orange and purple wires at the ECM and routing directly to the ignition module. The problem that I encountered was a plug at the module that omitted the purple wire. I did not want to cut off the connector and run 4 spade connectors to the module so I solved my problem this way.
(Note: When I say module connector I do not mean the connector at the end of the ignition module, I am referring to the connector that it plugs into - part of the wiring harness.)
I spliced my orange and purple wires near the ECM where I had cut them and ran new orange and purple wires to the connector for the module. I cut the orange wire at the module connector and spiced the new orange wire there. Now if you look at the connector it has a spot for the purple wire but nothing is there. I took a small screwdriver and worked my way through the connector to where the spade should be. I then took a larger screwdriver and worked it through from front to back. Then I used the screwdriver to keep an opening in the connector as I worked the purple wire through. Once the purple wire was through I put a spade connector on the end and forced it back down into the module connector. Put some dielectric grease on it, plugged it into the module and it's like a factory connection. So if I have to change the module out its one plug and no big deal - keeps it clean, too.
Others may have done the same thing but I have never seen it mentioned. Thought I would share tip that has worked out well for me.

Scott

 

[WVTechCJ5]

Thank you, it is appreciated.

 

[84_CJ7]

Not a problem. Plenty of people here have performed the upgrade so there is a lot of help to be found.

Scott

 

[BakedAlaskan]

I have a rebuilt 258 with Holley Projection and it has been great. Not the cure all of all, but way better then the carb set up. Hard as hell to get it to stall even with the brakes on hard at idle. But being the manual adjust style (older model) it's a bit finicky during the colder months. They use a different fuel during the winter months here, and it tends to run a bit rich.
But it has massive amounts of power right off idle, and never stalls or hickups at any angle/jump/bounce/ etc....

I currently run 31's with 373's and a 4 speed. I would like to get 33's for looks but honestly this thing just goes over and through all that I have tried.

 

[WVTechCJ5]

How do i find the Holley Projection?
and thanks for your help.