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how do you unsubscribe from this thread? It says I'm not yet I get a reply each time someone does (when there is no $20)

Only the motor is important. Other engines have a different pattern. You'll want the flywheel and bigger clutch too.

Matching pair of '80 -88 J10 axles. 2.72 ratio non-vacuum D44 front. $250 (no calipers) Rear Model 20 needing right axle (I need it for my Honcho) My old one can be included $100 727 $150 and NP219 $150 or $200 the pair. Trans has Lokar kickdown cable. Rad for '74 to '92 FSJ with V8. 3 row...

I killed 2 AX-5s behind my TBI 86 2.5L in an '86 Comanche 4x4. I hauled too much stuff I guess.

It depends what model your Jeep is. Some ARE trucks!

Tcase dumped or is the vacuum front axle messed up? Undo one end of the front drive shaft to see which way either end moves.

Especially ones that think they know better what you and the world want better than you do!

clean the connections on the coil and look for arcing tracks. Were the plug wires replaced?

I meant the 2 filaments inside some bulbs like the 1157, 3157 or 2057. That is normal. Dim filament for park lights and bright for brake/turn

Just the thing for a getaway when the zombies come! No need to open the gate. Just drive up to the "loft" and exit. Since they can't climb you should be safe unless they get stuck in the undercarriage or you turn sharp with lifted JPNinPA posted

Just the thing for a getaway when the zombies come! No need to open the gate

If you are running EFI and you don't account for that in your cam computations, you will not be very happy as well.

Put it in 4x4. Lift one front wheel and block the others. If the lifted wheel can spin, look to see if the driveshaft spins. If it does, the problem is in the tcase. If not, then it's in the front diff, IF no-one swiped the front axle shafts. You should be able to see the axle ujoints behind the...

Here's my Jeep trailer Box from a '77 J10 shortbed

Could be a number of things. Loose ground wire on the body causes a lot of problems (it's not the one going from the battery to the motor) Swap your fuel pump relay with the one next to it (if they have the same part number) Then I'd look at the ignition electrical switch. Also make sure the CPS...

First, check wheelbearings and balance tires. Check balljoints and tierods as well as the driver's side of the trac bar and look at the control arms for movement of the bolts that are supposed to be tight. I had the frame end of my lower control arms come loose and the shims fell out, which...

No EGR to worry about. Have you run any GOOD fuel system cleaner? (I use AMSOIL PI) How old are the cap, plugs and wires? IIRC, the MAP sensor is on the side of the throttlebody and not on the firewall anymore (the hose would crack) Have you checked the ground wire isn't loose on the motor or body?

YJ are leaf spring.

Here's the first thing to do: Fuel filter. Add a see-thru one in the rubber hose right before the fuel pump too. Crud from the tank can jam the inlet vale open and drop the fuel delivery. Make sure the oil isn't full of gas! Then, get it running and bang the ignition box with a rubber mallet...

But you have the 3 speed automatic, right?