what axles would you use?

[fixitdad]

we are trying to decide what to use on the sons 1994 yj wrangler at this stage in the game we have the new motor trans and case in and he is saving to get axles keep in mind we are looking to do this as cheap as we can lol nothing ever works that way kind of like the motor hehehe.

Motor 388 stroker we should be around 350 to 400 hp range
trans turbo 400
T-case 341c if I recall correctly lol
3" body lift
I think the springs where pro comp 3.5" that where more like 4.5 " or so it seemed.
34 tsl’s wants to go to 38 to 44s

What would you go with dana44 or dana60s and from what Chevy dodge what or a waggy building the motor was the easy part lol.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Not just any old axle will hold up to that kind of power, especially with oversized tires. I'd recommend a 14bolt rear and a dana60 front, best to find a set from a '79 Ford 1ton so the front diff is on the driver's side, unless you have a pass. drop transfer case.

 

[xjmarc]

I'm with Bounty Hunter except you won't find a 14 bolt in a Ford (Chevy Axle). Got mine out of a 79 and haven't looked back. Rear will be a 60 in that year. Mid 80's they started using Sterling rears and haven't heard much good about them.

 

[jps4jeep]

Is there a build thread going on or is this just a question? this section is for vehicle builds, not to ask questions, moderators should move this if it is not leading to a build thread..

Not just any old axle will hold up to that kind of power, especially with oversized tires. I'd recommend a 14bolt rear and a dana60 front, best to find a set from a '79 Ford 1ton so the front diff is on the driver's side, unless you have a pass. drop transfer case.

Also, I am not a total Arse.. but motor sounds sweet.. I would agree with Bounty here my only issue with what Bounty said is.. 78/79 f350's and f250 sno fighters have the desirable 60 front you want.. but they have porky D60 30 spline neck down shaft rears.. the 14 bolt he recommends would come from a 77-present gm 3/4 and 1 ton truck and or van. make sure you get the 8 lug full floater 10.5" ring open diff. avoid the 9.5 semi floating diff and anything with a Gov lock diff (they suck)

the 14 bolt will either have 3.73 or 4.10, they are different carriers, so if you regear, you need thick cut gears to replace teh 3.73 and regular cut to replace teh 4.10.

You might see people bashing 5.38 gears for the 14 bolt due to the problematic and thin ring gear.. unless your running a 600 hp nitro methane heavy buggy on 47" tires; I would not worry.

 

[jps4jeep]

I'm with Bounty Hunter except you won't find a 14 bolt in a Ford (Chevy Axle). Got mine out of a 79 and haven't looked back. Rear will be a 60 in that year. Mid 80's they started using Sterling rears and haven't heard much good about them.

Much like the eaton series axles from the 60's and 70's.. the sterling is a Diamond in the Rough.. either 80 or 81 was the first year for them and until 97 they are buildable and plentiful, I equate the strength to a D70 shaft wise, the ring gears are about the size of a D60.

the 98 and on's biggest draw back is the bolt pattern and smalled spindle. I am sure you could start swapping parts from an older axle to make the upgrades.

 

[Ggg]

I agree with the above axle recommendations. I can't find any info on a 341c t-case so I do not know if it is R. or L. side drop. The tire sizes and horsepower you plan on running are too big for a D44, you need 1 ton axles. If you do have L. side drop then the "snow fighter" axles are the easiest to bolt into a YJ because the spring perches are very close to the same width and there is no need to move them. They are hard to find and usually come at a premium $$. If you have a R. side drop t-case then you really only have low pinion GM, Dodge axles to choose from.
I agree the Ford hp60 for a front axle is good for a L. side drop t-case. I personally do not worry about ball joint v/s king pin versions on a Jeep running 1 tons. Rear axle choices are IMO in order of strength 14bolt, D70 or Sterling, Dana 60. I am running Sterlings in several trucks and have had absolutely no issues, I even truck pull and diesel drag race one truck. Dana 70 and the Sterling are very similar in strength and part sizes. As said earlier the 10.5 Sterling (99-current) has a metric wheel BP and disc brakes so it would be best to use a SD front diff to keep the wheel BP the same. The 10.25 Sterling (81-97) has the standard 8 on 6.5" BP, and drum brakes. The Sterlings have a center section about the same size as a D60, but D70 sized gears (10.25",10.5"). The D60 uses a 9.75" ring gear, D70 has a 10.5" gear.
xjmark what have you heard bad about the Sterlings? I do know the early versions (short spline pinion) had some pinion issues but only in competition use.

 

[xjmarc]

Nothing really bad just nothing good, until now. Here in the south we pretty much run 60s 14 bolts and Eaton (forgot about them earlier). Is it true that the semi float Sterlings are c-clip. Heard that somewhere.

 

[fixitdad]

wow great to be a part of jeepz always great advice let me ask this as for t=case I can swap this one out for another if it would make finding or installing front axle any easier right now it is a driver’s side drop would a passenger side be better? we did get a little fun in today started the 388 stroker for first time once I figure how to convert the video file off my phone I will post it can I post the video here in this build tread?

 

[fixitdad]

here is a link for video http://www.jeepz.com/forum/jeep-videos/28626-video-first-start-up-388-stroker-engine-sons-jeep.html

we where at a stand still for a while cash flow problems I think we just might have spent a little more on engine then we had planes for was supposed to be stock 350 ooppppps anyhow we are going this weekend to look for the axles so if i go with a passanger side drop what would be a good rig to get a front axle out of.

 

[xjmarc]

Passenger side drop, get a Dana 60 out of a Chevy or Dodge. You can get the CUCV axles as a pair 60/14bolt for around a grand. The drivers side drop 60 is a high pinion and a bit stronger but the pass side should be fine. You always have the option of going with Rocks. See a lot of those around here as well. You'd need a bit more lift to clear the top loader 3rds for them though.

 

[fixitdad]

Well we went and checked on the axles today we found a front axle from a 1977 f-250 ball joints not king pin seems to be in good shap and he has a lot of 14 bolt chevy axles to chose from what would be a fare price on these 4:10 gears. he called us with a price would they be worth $350.00

 

[Ggg]

Well there is a little problem with the info. BJ axles didn't start till 1991.5 model year. 1977 was a odd year for Ford D60, there was a early low pinion model, and a late year high pinion. In a 77 F250 the D60 was only used in a crew cab.

 

[fixitdad]

ok so at some point the front end must have been changed in the old ford guess i will have to go get the info off the diff tag other then the fact that it is BJ and not a high pinion will it work. best part for him is we have a old crystler here he will give us 250 for makeing this only 100 bucks out of pocket. Thanks for all the help on this guys.

 

[Ggg]

If it is a BJ axle then it will be a HP, 77.5 on up D60's were all HP axles for Ford. If it is a low pinion L. side drop it would be 1977 and earlier Ford. Either high or low pinion axle will work, they all have their little quirks but nothing to really worry about as far as the D60 fronts go. Even the old closed knuckle version D60's were still stronger than a D44. Oh yeah I almost forgot front drum brakes kinda suck so go with disc brakes. If you can get both axles for $100 then it leaves you a lot of money left for refurbishing or parts. If you are going to get info on the axle get the BOM# it will be stamped on the long side tube, front side of the tube, closer to the diff than the knuckle.

 

[fixitdad]

ok thanks i will go by there tomarrow and see if i can get the info I can tell you this forny axle has disk brakes on it it has not been in the yard long and was being used as the rotors heve no rust hell they looked as good as my burban lol.

 

[jps4jeep]

Well we went and checked on the axles today we found a front axle from a 1977 f-250 ball joints not king pin seems to be in good shap and he has a lot of 14 bolt chevy axles to chose from what would be a fare price on these 4:10 gears. he called us with a price would they be worth $350.00

Thats a D44 not a D60/ the D60 with Ball joints didn't start until mid 91 model year, and even then, it was found in only F350's, 1980 f250's went to TTB front axles until 1998 then they got a hybrid D50/D60

Price is fair at best, offer $250. the 14 bolt should not get more than $100 stock, regardless of gearing or carrier unless it is a CUCV axle, then it has 4:56 gears and a detroit stock. those go for about $350.
the 44 front is not worth a whole lot from the trucks, the 88-now chevy guys like them for a light duty SAS.. but other than that, not many people are looking for them.

 

[fixitdad]

jps4jeeps hit it on the head it is a d44 dang i wenn through that whole yard today no 60 just 44s just my luck lol.

 

[fixitdad]

Guys I am back with a question I have a chance to get the following for 700 bucks would they be worth it.
1 Dana 60 front axle with extra axles 4:10 ratio
front hubs from a dually
no brake parts

1 - 1ton rear Eaton rear axle with locking rear diff 4:10 ratio
no brake parts he said Eaton 70 i believe.

and would the brake assembly off a 3/4 to dana 44 work on these axles?

 

[fixitdad]

Got are dana 60 complete hub to hub for 600 bucks only down side its a dully but we will machine off the outer flange and make it work. while waiting to find a axle we decided to stretch the front 5 inch's have frame extended will try to get pics and post them soon.