Spring perch attachment for YJ from FSJ (D 44)

hoobness

New member
thanks

Hey all,

Im past the halfway point on my YJ rebuild project and Im running into problems with the spring perches on the Dana 44s I got from a 88 FSJ.

As we all know the perches on the D44s from a FSJ are not where a YJ needs them... The problem Is local 4x4 shops around here are not really wanting to do this for me for liability reasons. Which makes me not want to call my welder buddy in to do the job. I have new longer perches and the diffs are being regeared as I write this.

The more I think about it, i feel now is the time to get optimum drive line angles. If I welded Id do it myself.

The main issue the 4x4 shop has is the front. He is afraid of creating death wobble from bad caster anges... He described a shopping cart effect.

Im getting down to the wire here, Im So NH, if anyone can do it or knows a shop in the in the NH-Boston area that can let me know!

thanks
 

RE: Re: RE: which Junkyard "car" seats fit YJs?

If you can weld, I would just figure out what angle they need to be yourself and then go ahead and just weld them.

First just tack them in place, measure/test fit the axle, then weld a little more, test some more, etc....
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: A not so satisfied user

The way I think of doing this is : ((if i get my welder to do it.. Id do the folowing while he sits and waits next to me to weld where i need...))

1] dropping the shackle side of the springs,
2] rolling in the axle(on wheels),
3] re-attaching the shackles,
4] loosly mounting the ubolts in place along with the perches sandwiched in-between,
4] jacking up so its hanging inside the springs,
5] moving it side to side and twisting it until
-- a) each wheel is the same distance from the frame,
-- b) the pinion angle is correct. (what is correct?)
6] Tack the perches in the corners
7] remove the axles and let my welder buddy go to work!


The rear seems somewhat simple, the front seems intimidating - I no longer have a high pinion axle up front so my front drive angle is going to be screwy right?
I worry about messing with the caster because of the dangers involved with bad caster on the highway --remember this is also a daily driver! - the sole reason the 4x4 shop here wont touch it.

advice needed !!!!
 
RE: Winches

If your useing a waggy front then leave the driver side perch alone. Mount it up and adjust the pass side perch to match and your done. Thats what it did to mine and dont have any problems, even at 75-80 mph..........my .02
 

Re: RE: Winches

I don't understand the problem. What are his concerns regarding the caster angle?

I still think he has it confused with a Scout II axle swap, where caster really is a problem. The SJ axles are fine.
 
I have a 1" shackle lift, 4" susp lift.

do you think the front pinion needs to be pointed in any new direction?
 

If you are running Dshafts with a single joint at each end, you want the pinion to be at an equal but opposite angle to the output on the Tcase. It doesn't have to be exactly dead nuts perfect so don't worry about it too much. A magnetic angle gauge will make measuring and setting the angles easy. Bolt it all together, setting the angles as you go, tack the perches in place then remove and finish welding.

I have to admit, I'm not sure I have ever even checked the front pinion angle with the Scout axle swaps..... We've done two SJ swaps on CJs and haven't changed the front pinion angle on those either, but one was just a 2.5" lift spring and the other was a 3-4" spring, both in a SUA configuration.
 
Don't worry about the front pinion angle, use the same driver's side spring perch and weld the pass. side spring perch perfectly parallel with the stock perch. I've heard of redrilling the driver's side perch to move the spring center pin where you need it, requiring you to grind a little of the diff housing away.

Once you have your perches set the same as the FSJ was when stock, your pinion angle will be acceptable and your caster will be safe and fine.
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Owiiieeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

not to beat this to death...

>> but about the "use the same driver's side spring perch and weld the pass. side spring perch..."

wouldnt that cause the axle to ride 1 inch over to the passenger side? (each perch needs to come in .5")

--thus steer funny? and look kinda goofy?
 
thanks Junpile,

that what I thought would happen if i lined up one end... And thats enough to make me center it.
 
I don't think 1" is enough to notice, but I know it would drive me nuts if it were my jeep and I knew it was like that. I'd center it.
 

thanks guys, Im waiting for the Diff shop to call me with the finished regearing..

then Ill get to this dreaded spring perch attachment...

Funny, I wasnt the least bit worried about it until i spoke to a concerned 4x4 shop - said they wouldnt do it- for liability/safety issues- OF course Im gonna freak out wondering if its safe.. but then again the original jeep was welded from the factory.. so as long as a good welder does the job whats the big deal ---- ???

thats what i tell myself..! hah LOL

Ill keep you all updated..!
thanks again!
 
Funny, I wasnt the least bit worried about it until i spoke to a concerned 4x4 shop - said they wouldnt do it- for liability/safety issues-

I wouldn't sweat it. Most 4wd shops are guys just like you and me that thought they could make dime doing what they love. Owning a shop in no way makes them an expert. I'm no expert either, but that swap is basic stuff as far as drivetrain swapping goes. Once you get it finished, take it by and let him check it out.
 
Junkpile said:
Most 4wd shops are guys just like you and me that thought they could make dime doing what they love. Owning a shop in no way makes them an expert.


Exactly. Which means they need to be ABSOLUTELY sure that someone won't come back and sue them for everything.

I'd just go for it.
 
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