Replacing your CPS made easy

Sound_Man

New member
1076422

Someone asked in an earlier post how to replace the CPS. I don’t remember what thread it was in but here you go.

Tools needed:
7/16” socket
Universal joint
2 x 12” extensions
Ratchet
Drop light or flashlight (Not really needed but makes it easier to do the job.)
Brain (Needs to be in proper working order.) :-D

The best way to do this is from under the vehicle. You will want the engine to be cool because you will be working around the exhaust and the back of the head and valve cover.
I suggest taking it to a car wash and spraying off the bell housing the best you can from inside the engine compartment pointing down behind the intake and the back of the head to remove any dirt or grease that has built up back there and get underneath around the drivers side of the transmission. Then take it to where you are going to do the work and let it sit until the motor is cool to the touch and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before you start.
There are 2 7/16” bolts that hold the CPS into the bell housing. They are positioned so that the head of each bolt faces the back of the vehicle. You may need to position a light in the engine compartment between the intake, firewall and the brake booster so that you can see them from underneath. Put on a pair of shop glasses or goggles because you will be working directly above your eyes and you will get dirt in your eyes if you don’t.
Take out the top bolt first. Make sure that as you take it out you do not drop it or loose it. There is a rubber cover over the transmission bell housing that the CPS sits in. If you drop this bolt into that opening you will need to separate the transmission from the engine to get the bolt. That job is no fun at all, especially not for one bolt. Take out the second bolt keeping in mind the caution that you used with the first bolt. You will see that the wires coming off of the CPS are in a clip or should be in a clip that is just above the bell housing. You will want to pull the wires out of that clip next. Now from the engine compartment you will see the wires are in another clip at the very back of the head. Pull the wires out of that clip and then unplug the bad CPS from the harness. Compare it very closely to the new CPS and make sure that the sensor is located in the same place in comparison to the holes for the bolts. On some CPS’s there are a series of little holes in the mounting bracket. Do not use these for a comparison for the position of the sensor on the bracket. Compare the space from each bolthole to the sensor on each end. The location of the sensor tells the computer where top dead center of cylinder #1 is and if it is off by just a little the motor will not run well. Reverse the steps that you used to remove the old CPS and your stalling and starting problems should be gone.
This whole process should take about 30 minutes. Possibly a little longer the first time you do it. I can do it in less than 20 minutes now on a cool engine.

Here you can see the CPS from above.
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Here is the plug.
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Here it is from underneath. I could not get the camera to focus on it.
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1076715

I guess I should have asked to have this put in the "how to" section.
 
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