radiator swap
- Thread starter buckamore
- Start date
tntchitwood
New member
Guys around here buy two core radiators at advanced auto for a little over a hundred bucks,(I assume other chain store parts houses would have them to.), otherwise, take some measurements and hit the ol' pick your own part salvage yard. I would hit the salvage yard cause I'm a cheap sob. LOL
I think this is it, I have never bought one though........
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Rad_19920367-P_31_R|GRPCOOLAMS_1366476042___
I think this is it, I have never bought one though........
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Rad_19920367-P_31_R|GRPCOOLAMS_1366476042___
Last edited:
MudderChuck
New member
I've never done it myself. But your going to need a coolant recovery bottle and a different heater control valve. I can't remember which year they changed the transmission cooler to radiator connections. Some people have re plumbed the heater lines to the new model of XJ (after 98 I think) and done away with the heater control valve all together.
Here is a link that may be helpful, though if you go to the post 90 radiator you won't need the filler neck.
MADXJ
I replaced my radiator, fan clutch and surge tank, cleaned out my heater valve, replaced the rad hoses and flushed my heater core. And stayed with the original Renix (like you have) cooling setup. Been working fine for the last five years.
They have a single core and a two core (HD) type radiator available. The double core is definitely the better and a must with A/C. You can also get a three core, but this can cause clearance problems between the fan blade and the radiator if your motor mounts are weak or you drive it hard off road.
Many of the cooling problems in the Renix type setup are, air trapped in the system, a partially plugged radiator (I use only distilled water and coolant mix), a cracked surge tank, a faulty surge tank cap, aux fan not coming on when the motor heats up a little too high and likely tiny leaks someplace. Maybe a faulty thermostat, I've found OEM to work the best, with an OEM gasket.
Another often overlooked spot is the radiator itself, they can get plugged on the outside, especially between the A/C condenser and the radiator. They get full of dust, bugs and pollen.
Here is a link that may be helpful, though if you go to the post 90 radiator you won't need the filler neck.
MADXJ
I replaced my radiator, fan clutch and surge tank, cleaned out my heater valve, replaced the rad hoses and flushed my heater core. And stayed with the original Renix (like you have) cooling setup. Been working fine for the last five years.
They have a single core and a two core (HD) type radiator available. The double core is definitely the better and a must with A/C. You can also get a three core, but this can cause clearance problems between the fan blade and the radiator if your motor mounts are weak or you drive it hard off road.
Many of the cooling problems in the Renix type setup are, air trapped in the system, a partially plugged radiator (I use only distilled water and coolant mix), a cracked surge tank, a faulty surge tank cap, aux fan not coming on when the motor heats up a little too high and likely tiny leaks someplace. Maybe a faulty thermostat, I've found OEM to work the best, with an OEM gasket.
Another often overlooked spot is the radiator itself, they can get plugged on the outside, especially between the A/C condenser and the radiator. They get full of dust, bugs and pollen.
MudderChuck
New member
I never fill the surge tank (87-90 Renix) up more than half way, it needs room for expansion. I usually fill to half, with the motor cold.
People don't realize the cap on the surge tank is also a pressure cap. It vents at around 16-17 PSI (usually) and will let air into the top of the tank when the motor is in cool down cycle. If they are nasty, you can usually soak them in vinegar. If they get too gummed up, the system can build too much pressure and crack the tank.
People don't realize the cap on the surge tank is also a pressure cap. It vents at around 16-17 PSI (usually) and will let air into the top of the tank when the motor is in cool down cycle. If they are nasty, you can usually soak them in vinegar. If they get too gummed up, the system can build too much pressure and crack the tank.
relized that the cap was a pressure cap. That is why I replaced it before spending a lot of money on a radiator,I was guessing 2/3 full on the tank.So far changing to the 180 degree thermostat seems to have helped the most.When I replaced it waiting for the stat to open so the fluid to get to the engine I would have liked to have be able to put water in and see it flow guess I'm just old school. Vinegar will also be a good flush run for 1/2 hour then flush and watch the iorn flow out. THanks again DEAN
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