I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee class 2X2 with police package. I want to turn it into a 4x4 as it has the 4.0, only 140,000 miles and runs like a scalded dog. This has been a project vehicle with my son and I. We have been fixing the minor issues allowing me to teach him things. I eventual want to pass it on to him. We are a big hunting family and I want him to be able to use it to hunt hence the conversion. Plus this will be a time we both learn, my neighbor will be helping. I cannot find a 4x4 that has a blown engine, but I can find plenty of parts. Will someone on here either help me find one with a blown engine but the the 4x4 drive train working or tell me what all parts I need to buy to build it please?
I have done this to my 99 Classic that is basically the same rig. What you will need is listed here below:
1st: Front D30 or D44 axle from a donor XJ or TJ Wrangler. You would prefer a TJ/LJ Rubicon D44 or high pinion D30 from 96-99 XJ without the vacuum disconnect CAD device and with the larger 297X U joints out of another XJ Cherokee. This axle needs to have the same gear ratio as the rear axle you have, (your axle is most likely a Chrysler 8.25 "corporate" axle in a police package XJ). If the front axle you obtain does not have the same gear ratio, you will have to re-gear to match BOTH axles. This ratio needs to be matched to the intended tire size you plan to run on this XJ. D44's from a Rubicon have stock 4.10 gears, most automatic Cherokees had 3.55's but you need to double check the metal tag bolted to the rear axle in your Jeep by some of the inspection cover bolts. If you don't know how to do this, take a picture for me to see it and I will tell you what you have. It may also be listed on the door tag of the drivers side door on the VIN sticker.
2nd: Next you need to find a 4WD version of the AW4 (30-40) ASIN transmission that is used in Cherokee XJ's. It must be a 4WD version from a
late 1997-2001 only and must have both FRONT & REAR speed sensors in the side of it (these are a blue color plastic plugs on the drivers side of the transmission). The transmission speed sensor visible inside the tail shaft will have FOUR LOBES on it visible through the tail shaft housing seal where the transfer case bolts up to. If it has two lobes, throw it back, you can't use it because it's from a 1997 or earlier XJ and won't communicate properly with the transmission computer in your later model XJ. While you are at getting the transmission, you should also get the bracketry for the 4WD lever that bolts to the transmission and the tunnel along with the shifter, it's bezel and all the linkage from a 4WD Cherokee 1997 and up. It is important that you take all hardware associated with the shifter both inside & outside the transmission tunnel and don't forget the lamp and pigtail to light the shifter once it's installed. It doesn't make a difference if the lever is from an all-wheel drive NP-242 or 231J equipped Jeep except if you get the one for the 231J transfer case, it will show the proper indication when shifted if you install a part-time 231J or 241OR TC.
3rd: You will need a NVG or NP-231J transfer case from a 1997-2001 XJ OR if you are building for serious crawling, you can install the coveted NVG-241OR 4:1 Rock-Track out of a Rubicon TJ/LJ Wrangler from 2003-2006 years. You cannot use a 2007+ Wrangler or Rubicon transfer case because there is no provision for a speedometer so stick with the aforementioned years above. Make sure you get the linkage and the plug with a pigtail that attaches to the 4WD sensor on top of the TC so you can wire it into the XJ harness for 4wd indication lamp in the instrument cluster. Make sure to get the six nuts that hold TC to the 4wd transmission. The speedometer output plug on the TC will connect to the wiring in the XJ.
4th: You need a drive shaft that will fit the front axle to the TC you are using. If it is a stock 231J, then a 4wd drive shaft from another automatic equipped XJ will fit. If you chose to upgrade to the Ruby Rock-Track 4:1, you may need custom drive shaft work done or depending on the amount of lift and transmission in the donor TJ/LJ Wrangler, it's front drive shaft might work.
5th: Rear drive shaft, depending on the amount of lift, I have found some XJ's can use a front double cardan drive shaft in the rear. My XJ uses two front XJ drive shafts as both front and rear in my application are the same. This may vary again depending on the TC and rear axle in your Jeep. Worst case scenario, measure and order a new drive shaft both front & rear with the correct ends for the TC & axles you are using. Not hard!
Everything described above is a bolt in affair except perhaps the drive shafts again depending on the TC you choose to run. While I was at converting mine, I upgraded both axles to D44F & D60R along with the TC to the NVG-241OR 4:1 ratio crawl box from an 04 ruby. All wiring will plug in and all parts will bolt right up so it's R & R the transmission, bolt the transfer case up, then hook up the linkage. There are small things like be careful with the crank-angle sensor on the bellhousing and re-routing the breather on the transmission and TC but overall, the XJ Cherokee is probably one of the easiest vehicles to convert into 4wd ever made since the 2wd models already have the holes and spots punched for the 4wd and came off the same line.
This isn't a step-by-step guide but a rough outline of what you will need and what parts are required to get the job done. It is fairly major work so some have opted to sell their 2wd XJ Cherokee then search out and buy a 4wd XJ rather than convert but if you are going to add bigger axles, suspension lift and weld on frame stiffeners, you might as well do it all at the same time while the conversion is being done. The feeling you will get knowing you did the conversion and built your XJ at the same time will give you great driving satisfaction both on and off road.
