"Heavy Duty" U joints

[laneiac]

DO NOT buy Napa heavy duty u joints, they are junk. I broke one from street driving, and I have a ubolt yoke conversion (which by the way is a great cheap upgrade if you havent done it already).

 

[jps4jeep]

?? The napa units are from spicer, at least at my local Napa, when you ask for HD u-joints, they give you spicers, these are the none greasable units.

 

[Joopin]

Hey laniac,
How do you like that Ubolt conversion? I have broke alot of ujoint strap bolts this month, even an end yoke! I was so close to upgrading but they didn't have the part in stock, so in my haste to get back on the trail I went for the stock end yoke.
Anyway, do you have to change anything on the driveshaft too? or is it just the yokes on the axles... I also was wondering if maybe Jeep made the ujoint straps the week part on purpose... maybe to keep from breaking or twisting anything major... that was another reason I haven't upgraded yet.

 

[laneiac]

RE spring over leaf?

That good be the case Joopin, maybe they are a fail safe. You can buy the yoke conversion kits, or on the rear axle you can just drill out the holes with a 9/16" bit, buy the ubolt kit from NAPA which runs about 4 dollars, and set it up. It is rock solid. Wheeled it very hard and not had any problems, and when I had the strap and bolt I was busting u joints left and right. Depending on your front axle, (cant remember if u have a d30 or 44) a yoke conversion must be purchased for the d30. Some people claim the drilling method is a bad idea, but I have seen numerous rigs running that way and all have loved it. In my opinion it is very worth the 20 minutes and 10 bucks. If you use the drill method, get a cobalt drill bit, that yoke will eat up a regular bit in no time.

 

[Joopin]

Yeah I have a 30 in the front and a 44 in the back, so your telling me I can drill out the 44 end yoke but it's iffy with the D30... it's tno that difficult to change an end yoke though. I will have to think it over, one more Ujoint shot and that will probably make up my mind for me... but since my winch is in perfect running condition now, that could be saving me from anymore ujoints breaking... maybe. Thanks for the info laneiac!

 

[far_right]

i think b/c you broke one ujoint driving it is crap. was it a axle u-joint, or a d-shaft joint. ront or rear. the single product may have just been bad. it shouldnt be a spicer joint. it is a percision joint. the same as many other places sell, just not reboxed for NAPA

 

[Snitty]

i dont like nonserviceble joints... i save the few bucks, and have the piece of mind of knowing that i can make sure my joints are lubricated all the time... as for the strap to ubolt deal.... go for it... great mod

 

[jps4jeep]

it shouldnt be a spicer joint. it is a percision joint. the same as many other places sell, just not reboxed for NAPA

No, they are 1330 spicer Ujoints at my local Napa, want me to send ya the box?

 

[redrooster]

You can buy the yoke conversion kits, or on the rear axle you can just drill out the holes with a 9/16" bit

Are you sure about that. I think you mean 5/16". I would say drilling them would be fine. I would think that a regular drill bit with some cutting oil would be sufficient to drill with. Then do like they said and get the bolt kit. It should be fairly easy to do.
Anybody know if NAPA has a u-bolt kit for a 1350 joint. I'll drill my rear yoke out and let you know how hard it was.

 

[avyoung]

Make sure you get the wright u-bolts. the ones for the application will not fit. I took in my CJ straps and matched them up to get the right ones. The holes are a little farther appart for the strap type, at least on the Model 20.

 

[Snitty]

yes.. it would be a 5/16 hole... just over a quarter... not a 9/16 which would be just over a half

 

[laneiac]

Oh, sorry, my bad. I know for a fact that my NAPA doesnt give my Spicer u joints, they are precisions, but I may have just gotten a bad u joint. The one I have on there now is not the heavy duty unit and has lasted through some hard stuff.

 

[Snitty]

i always go with the cheapos... 2 reasons... first.. the heavy duty joints are not greasable (the ones i get at least)... and my drivetrain always throws them.. so i dont want to be replacing them with expensive ones

 

[jps4jeep]

You can buy the yoke conversion kits, or on the rear axle you can just drill out the holes with a 9/16" bit

Are you sure about that. I think you mean 5/16". I would say drilling them would be fine. I would think that a regular drill bit with some cutting oil would be sufficient to drill with. Then do like they said and get the bolt kit. It should be fairly easy to do.
Anybody know if NAPA has a u-bolt kit for a 1350 joint. I'll drill my rear yoke out and let you know how hard it was.

I Don't think so, but if you want, there is a drive line shop down the street from my house, I can check with them if you want, and get back to you. I don't mind getting them for you if you want to pay for the shipping and cost.

Also check randy's ring and pinion, I know they sell the complete kit with the torque specs and all. I think you need to preload the rear yoke when switching to u-bolts.?

 

[redrooster]

I just wanted to know if they exist. I have a driveshaft shop here in town. Thanks anyway.
I don't know what you are talking about as far as preload. The yoke is tightened on the pinion and there is no way to preload the u-joint. Clarify.

 

[Snitty]

yeah i'm not understanding why you would preload