Ford electric fan install

[luis]

I know that its been said here before but I have detailed questions. I have a 97 tj with the 2.5, I want to install the fan with a controller cause I feel like I may forget to turn it on and that would be bad. Now for for the dc controller controls both speeds. What temp should the low speed come on at? My thermo opens at 195 degrees. What temp should the highspeed kick on at? This is all puzzling to me. Also is there anyother controllers besides the dc controller? Any help is appriciated thank you

 

[jfrabat]

I set mine at 190. Keep in mind this temp is AFTER going through the radiator...

 

[luis]

I set mine at 190. Keep in mind this temp is AFTER going through the radiator...

Isn't the wiring hooked up to the wiring for the thermostat? Or is it a probe in the radiator

 

[jfrabat]

Mine uses a probe... But the one you are ordering is different from mine.

 

[luis]

Mine uses a probe... But the one you are ordering is different from mine.

I was looking at the details on it and it uses both a probe and wiring into the thermo. I just want to make sure i do this right

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I use DC Control's variable controller, it only spins the fan as fast as needed to stay cool. It's a gradual start-up so the amp draw on the system is much less. It hooks up to the high side of the fan only.

 

[jfrabat]

I use DC Control's variable controller, it only spins the fan as fast as needed to stay cool. It's a gradual start-up so the amp draw on the system is much less. It hooks up to the high side of the fan only.

Bounty, there's a newer version that's a lot cheaper that uses both sides (hi and lo).

The 2sp controller will control all of the two speed Ford cooling fans, including the 3.8L Taurus fan correctly, the low speed circuit is calibrated to turn the fan on low at 185F, but is adjustable over a wide range of temperatures. The high speed circuit turns the fan on high at 10 degrees higher in temperature while disabling the low speed circuit


The 2sp2 controller uses an 80A relay for the high speed circuit, along with additional circuitry to control two of the two speed Ford cooling fans, including the 3.8L Taurus fan correctly, the low speed circuit is calibrated to turn the fan on low at 185F, but is adjustable over a wide range of temperatures. The high speed circuit turns the fan on high at 10 degrees higher in temperature while disabling the low speed circuit.

These are the "relay-based" controllers. The ones we have are the "Constant Temperature" controllers...

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Ya I've seen those newer cheaper versions. I think I'd still buck up for the more expensive variable controller.

 

[luis]

Ya I've seen those newer cheaper versions. I think I'd still buck up for the more expensive variable controller.

Which is that? I don't want to pay for something and have it break a week later

 

[jfrabat]

It's not because they break; they are just better. They run on when you need them, and use variable speed to control the temperature (and because they use the soft start, they will not go over 30A; actually, mine has a 30A fuse, and I have NEVER blown it). What I do with mine is to use the high speed side and control that with the DC controller, which uses a 3 position swtich to get the IGN input. This means I can turn off the controller (and thus the fan) when I cross rivers or deep mud bogs. the third position goes to a relay, which goes to the low speed, so I can override the controller and turn the fan on regardless of engine temp (sometimes usefull when wheeling, and as a backup in case the controller ever fails).

I am on my second controller, but the first one still works. Then only reason I changed it is that it would not turn on when I turned the AC on. They are fairly robust.

I think Bounty still has the FK35; I had that one and changed to an FK55 (IIRC). You can check them out at their site:

Constant Temperature Controllers and Accessories

Felipe

 

[luis]

It's not because they break; they are just better. They run on when you need them, and use variable speed to control the temperature (and because they use the soft start, they will not go over 30A; actually, mine has a 30A fuse, and I have NEVER blown it). What I do with mine is to use the high speed side and control that with the DC controller, which uses a 3 position swtich to get the IGN input. This means I can turn off the controller (and thus the fan) when I cross rivers or deep mud bogs. the third position goes to a relay, which goes to the low speed, so I can override the controller and turn the fan on regardless of engine temp (sometimes usefull when wheeling, and as a backup in case the controller ever fails).

I am on my second controller, but the first one still works. Then only reason I changed it is that it would not turn on when I turned the AC on. They are fairly robust.

I think Bounty still has the FK35; I had that one and changed to an FK55 (IIRC). You can check them out at their site:

Constant Temperature Controllers and Accessories

Felipe

Will the variable speed controller work with the ford fan? So they will come on automatically? And I can shut it off no matter what kinda like an override? Sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure I get the correct item

 

[jfrabat]

I do both on mine...

 

[JPNinPA]

Have to agree with a slow start fan. I run a flex-a-lite 485 puller fan. It has a 25A fuse that blew many times in the first month. It took some time to find cause the fan only needed to kick on a few times. Like when wheeling and when idling. I ended up putting a 1/2farad cap in front of the controller to take the spike of current. Other than this it works great.
What ever you do be sure it's a puller and has a fan shroud. The fan needs to pull >2200rpm to keep up.
If you wheel in the high altitudes and heat like NM or AZ... You want to be pulling lots of air.

This uses the f-a-lite controller with the in radiator probe. I placed the probe near the return hose and set it for 175.

 

[luis]

Have to agree with a slow start fan. I run a flex-a-lite 485 puller fan. It has a 25A fuse that blew many times in the first month. It took some time to find cause the fan only needed to kick on a few times. Like when wheeling and when idling. I ended up putting a 1/2farad cap in front of the controller to take the spike of current. Other than this it works great.
What ever you do be sure it's a puller and has a fan shroud. The fan needs to pull >2200rpm to keep up.
If you wheel in the high altitudes and heat like NM or AZ... You want to be pulling lots of air.

This uses the f-a-lite controller with the in radiator probe. I placed the probe near the return hose and set it for 175.

I plan on using a Ford fan. I'm sure its a puller since its mounted in front of the engine behind the radiator. I just figured the dc controller was the route to go since it was widely used by many

 

[Turbogus]

I like the description of the DC Controls 2sp2 but I'm dubious about the temp probe being a radiator fin design. I've had a failure caused by one of this type before.

 

[jfrabat]

I like the description of the DC Controls 2sp2 but I'm dubious about the temp probe being a radiator fin design. I've had a failure caused by one of this type before.

I have had the DC Controller for years; I even bought an extra probe in case mine ever fell off. Spare is still somewhere in the garage. When you keep in mind that I do mudding, which requires having to clean the radiator afterwards, and I have NEVER had the probe come off, I doubt you will see any issues with your...

 

[Turbogus]

I have had the DC Controller for years; I even bought an extra probe in case mine ever fell off. Spare is still somewhere in the garage. When you keep in mind that I do mudding, which requires having to clean the radiator afterwards, and I have NEVER had the probe come off, I doubt you will see any issues with your...

Was going to spare the long story of the failure but here goes;
When I originally rescued 'Black Betty' ('78 CJ 5 Renegade) she had been rebuit in some elements with JC Whintney parts and bailing wire-esque, made in lower Slobovia or somewhere.
Initially she had a two row fan with a TAL pusher 13" electric fan zip tied to the front of the radiator, lacking a pulley fan and no shroud. One of the first things I did was take the fan to the backside of the radiator and turned the blades and reversed polarity turning it into a puller fan, using new zip ties, but the existing push in sender. Late in the summer of that first year, she began to run hot, hotter than I ever had my '77 I had years ago nominally 180* in the summertime in Barstow Cal. (same V8 but bone stock with the pulley fan no shroud). After reading much ado about e fans being more efficient (right or wrong) I decided to keep the FAL fan and attack this by other means. Sometime later I read a review of the Flowkooler water pumps and as mine had developed a leak I went with one of those taking special care with the gasket thickness to provide adequate clearance for the impeller shield plate. While I was at it I purchased all new hoses and to my dismay, the Gates hose no longer came with the internal "spring" inside the lower hose. None were to be found so I had some pipe in the garage and wound a non painted coathanger around it then inserted into the hose tightly. The following summer she ran hot again. So I purchased and installed amechanical Auto Meter temp gauge and purchased an Omix ADA fan shroud. I had to trim clearance in the latter for clearance for the lower radiator hose and drain petcock. That summer on one occasion the 'idiot gauge was pegger full H and the mechanical gauge was reading 220* on that very hot for Oregon day +/- 100*. After that trip I closely inspected the radiator and to my disgust I found that the probe and zip ties had ever so slightly abraded and corroded the cooling tubes that they were next to. The local radiator shop remarked that they had seen this sort of damage before, but by the luck of the Finns I got a brand new in box three row 'racing' radiator from another Jeeper whom had just abandoned a Corvette motored CJ project. The shop fabbed up a mount with extensions that ran to the radiator mounts. Working on an unrelated issue, I happened one day to be blipping the in cab throttle with my hand and peering over the cowl I saw the upper radiator hose collapsing, so I bent up another coathanger and made another internal spring. I later purchased a new controller with a pipe threaded sender, it was just about this time I learned that Summit (if I remember right) had an internal radiator hose sleeve intended for senders to get their readings of temp immediately after the thermostat. The following period I was too busy with life issues. So this summer she still was running around 210* and by strong reccomendation from various forums I've recetly purchased the double fan from an '89 Mystique and am researching/reviewing wiring methods and means avoiding any of the radiator fin probes, as I already have this threaded in sender. I'm considering a 'roll your own' system and have a high amp relay on the way now. Notwithstanding all of this, I still welcome helpful insights and opions inkeeping with civility.

Sorry for the long winded post folks!