cherokee's on the gimp HELP!

[jeepmaster]

1064827

today on my way to work my jeep died twice. they symtoms are as follows - the RPMs start jumping around and the jeep kinda lurches and lunges and feels like its gonna rip something off then dies. while it does this the E-brake light, GEN light flash at me. after work i went out to the jeep and it wouldnt start. same flashing lights, same "engine about to come off the mounts" kicks and such. its a 96 cherokee sport, auto, I-6. its been raining recently and spent last night out on the driveway in it. it drove just fine yesterday and is waitin for me to fix it in the applebees parking lot. does anyone know what is wrong with it? any suggestions. my dad suggested checking the battery connections and such. any other thoughts would be awesome, cause im totally carless til i can get that thing running again. thanks in advance ~ max[addsig]

 

[MudDawg]

1064835

Take the distributor cap off and check inside for moisture...Douse it inside and out with a LOT of WD-40. It is hard to get the distributor wet in a cherokee, but the jumping around thing could be from a crossfire due to a wet distributor or ignition coil.

Also check the main harness plug where it goes through the firewall..on my 85 model it is between the master cylinder and the fenderwell..i have heard of those getting bad connections causing wierd problems.[addsig]

 

[IcyFridge]

1064841

I just had the same problem with my friend's chevy beretta. I say you check your belts and it could be your alternator, because I know your electrical system can act screwy if the alternator is shot. But, check your distributor first like Mud says. [addsig]

 

[dingus]

1064849

and with a '96 you can do a self-diagnostics test to see if the computer is throwing any codes (signalling a bad sensor)[addsig]

 

[jeepmaster]

1064860

how would i do that nate? and can someone give me a desctiption of the distributor that im supposed to check. ive mentioned before my grasp on what the parts look like isnt all that hot, what they do ive got a decent grasp on, but what the distributor looks like and where in the engine bay it is would be great. thanks oh and i went back just a bit ago to try it again and the starter just wont engage it sits there on the edge of starting like it will actually go at any second, then doesnt. all my power accessories work (radio, headlights, warning buzzer etc) and i have 1/3 a tank of gas, so thats not it. my moms friend said it seemed like there was a problem with the fuel not sure if that helps anymore either.... thanks again ~ max[addsig]

 

[IcyFridge]

1064882

Definitely the alternator in my opinion. Try jumping it and leave it running with the cables still attached for about 10 mins. Then take the cables off. Then let it run for a while. If the battery guage reads lower and lower every couple of mins, then it is the alternator. Your battery provides ample power for your lights to work, but not enough to spin the starter.
Also the distributor is the thingamigjig that all the spark plug wires go into. The spark pluag iwres run from the valve covers to the distributor. [addsig]

 

[dingus]

1064893

Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on,
off, on, off, on. (On is not start!)

The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes
Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be
FLASH FLASH---FLASH FLASH FLASH

It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!

55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you dont have air conditioning.

Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this
is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete.

88 Start of test (This only appears on DRBII, it's not blinked out)
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad hall
effect)
OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; or intermittent
loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor
12 Memory Standby power lost (battery cable disconnected)
13* No change in MAP from start to run
14* MAP sensor circuit open or shorted; voltage too low
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cold too long (bad thermostat)
21 Oxygen sensor signal out of range, possibly shorted
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range (or disconnected to set timing)
23 Intake air temperature signal out of range
24* Throttle position circuit out of range
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted
or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached
27 Logic module fuel circuit internal problem
OR
27 TBI injector does not respond properly to control signal
31 Evaporator Purge solenoid circuit open or shorted OR
Evaparator solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure OR
Power loss lamp open or shorted
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted
34 Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits open or shorted
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
36 Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed (blown bulb) OR
Park/neutral switch failure
OR
37 Torque converter unlock circuit open or shorted, A-413 4-speed auto
41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (whatever
that means)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system
voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
55 End of codes
61 "baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure

Copied from BC4x4.com[addsig]

 

[jeepmaster]

1064916

thanks nate, i noticed you star'd a couple that sound likely, on 22, the engine coolant one...i just happened to notice today that the coolant is really low, the resovoir isnt emtpy but its pretty close. im not sure where the sensor for that is but if its above the coolant line could that be why it wont start? thanks ~ max[addsig]

 

[remember5]

1064920

I agree with Dingus, check the codes. IMO, the alternator is not the problem, because he says in the beginning that it turns over and tries to run but won't start. If the alternator had failed, he would have been driving on battery juice the last few miles, and I doubt it would turn over with all the accessories on. The simple test it to try to boost it. If it still doesn't start, its something else. Does that 4.0 have a timing belt or a chain? Could it have jumped? [addsig]

 

[dingus]

1064928

thanks nate, i noticed you star'd a couple that sound likely

no i didn't, they were starred when i copied them from the other place... i'm not sure why they're starred... but thanks for the extra credit, i just don't deserve it :lol:[addsig]

 

[jeepmaster]

1064932

haha impressive man, all the more possible ones are star'd, maybe the original writer had the same problem or something[addsig]

 

[IcyFridge]

1065240

Thanks remembered. That had slipped my mind. [addsig]

 

[osito129]

1065253

I had a similar problem on my old Dakota, engine was turnung over but not starting, it turned out that the Starter/Celinoid(sp?) was shot. Once those were replaced everything was gravy.- Chris [addsig]

 

[jeepmaster]

1065269

ok i got it started and it shot a bunch of water out the tailpipe and sputtered and such but now seems to be running fine. everytime i start it now water comes out the exhaust any ideas?[addsig]

 

[dingus]

1065296

if it IS pure water, it is just a by-product of the combustion process. i'd me more likely to think, if it is a good amount of water, that it is coolant. what color is it, and does it smell?

-nate[addsig]

 

[jeepmaster]

1065324

its clear and no it doesnt really smell. there may be a slight gas smell to it, but i think thats just me inhaling exhaust lol. next time it does it ill take a nice close up pic for ya'll. and i do need coolant, badly. do i just go buy some then mix it 50.50 w, water and pour it in?[addsig]

 

[randomjeeper]

1065339

my two cents, although most likely its not the problem here. my jeep would start, but the whole thing would shake then it would die and smell like exhaust, pressing the gas did nothing. (oh yes this was in winter too). i had to get it towed and what the dealership told me was that i had ice in my exhaust? or something along the lines of that? (well actually that's what my dad told me the dealer told him...). so hopefully this helps someone out sometime? good luck with your current situation though. being jeepless isn't fun.[addsig]

 

[remember5]

1065348

We had a major argument at work one day, the Ford guy saying that antifreeze protected better mixed 50/50. I told him I had always run 100% antifreeze. He said he heard that 100% would freeze. I thought that was BS so when I got home, I mixed a cup of 50/50 and a cup of 100% and stuck them both in the freezer. Next morning, the 50/50 was fluid and the 100% was slushy. What does that mean? Depends on where you live. In Tennessee, 100% is probably OK but in Alaska 50/50 is the mix. Anyway, you can buy 50/50 already mixed, which is what I have been doing, and it works fine.[addsig]

 

[jeepmaster]

1065481

kk i think im gonna grab some 50 50 thanks, any ideas on what the fluid is?[addsig]

 

[dingus]

1065508

i'm lost on the fluid... my guess is antifreeze. but i figured i'd clear up what the stars mean on that list. my manual says that "procedures marked with an asterisk indicate component replacements which may not cure the problem in all cases. for this reason, you may want to seek professional advice before purchasing replacement parts."


--nate[addsig]