bad sound while turning in gear...

N

Natty

New member
1043494

My euphoric feeling of completing a 4.5" suspension lift with 33x12.50 on 15x10 AR 767 rims on my '94 Wrangler was shattered with unwelcome noises. While testing the performance mildly while cutting a cookie, doing a donut, ie, etc, on the beach (Clearwater, Fl.) I noticed a cluncking, poping sound somewhere along the driveline. It only happens when it is in gear, and turning. Out of gear turning or in gear going straight, it seems "fine." It only occurs while in gear and turning. Not good sound. Can feel it all throughout the Jeep. Sounds like something is really close to snapping or busting...my bank account that is. It's ironic, I just saw a bumper sticker today...Jeep means, "Just Empty Every Pocket." I hope not in this case. If anyone has any info, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance for your time and knowledge. Matt.

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1043509

is this while making gradual turns or sharp turns.[addsig]
 
1043519

Sounds like it could be the spider gears, does it jerk at all?



Do you remember hearing a loud(er) pop/bang noise lately?



Get some gear oil and black silicon, take off the rear diff cover and change the fluid just to be sure there's nothing wrong in there. Hopefully you wont find any metal chunks.





This just happened to me too last week
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1043539

Thanks for the responses. To Jizeep, the full cornicopia of turns. Gradual, sharp, if I think of turning in my sleep, it pops/bangs. Bob, sent you a private message but in case that doesn't work, there was an initial loud pop/bang followed by many of its cousins. Once again, only turning while in gear. When it bangs, it is accompanied with jerking. What was your problem and how did you fix it? The guy who posted his website, American Auto Stores, thinks it might lie in the transmission or transfer case. I don't like that theory simply because it soulds more expensive to remedy. If the transmission or tcase is shot, I'd like to replace it (as a last resort of course) with a beefier one. Anyone know where to find a good deal on a heavy duty tcase or transmission. Or at least less of a intimate experience while purchasing one. Thanks, Matt.
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1043541

never got the private message.



I busted the spider gears in my differential, had it fixed under warranty, what you describe sounds exactly like that. If it's not under warranty it will cost about $300-$600 depending on if it took anything else out with it.



What happens is when you turn the differential is supposed to do it's thing so you don't chirp tires going around a corner, however a tooth or two is gone from the gears so instead of working smothly, it skips which causes the noise and the jerk.



here are some pictures of the damage I did.



http://www.y2k2tj.com/images/brokendiff/





If you ever want to install a locker, now is the time
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1043544

Visions of lockers dancing in my head since I decided that I was going to modify my ride a few years ago. One of the top ten lies told when purchasing a Jeep: Naw...I'm going to keep it stock. Usually followed by: Really...I'm not going to take it off road that much. Right. Any recommendations for lockers if that ends up to be the problem. I'm going to take a look tommorrow morning to assess the damage. If that is the problem, then a locker is definitely going in there. Something that is street friendly would be nice. Detroit, ARB, a soft locker??? Haven't really researched them that much nor do I know anyone with one. Thanks, Matt.[addsig]
 
1043564

in the rear the only good street lockers are the selectable ones like an ARB or an OX.[addsig]
 

1043567

as long as we are talking about lockers..........how much better are "true" lockers compared to the "posi" lockers that distribute the power differently on the two wheels.[addsig]
 
1043634

Bob - sent you an email...not a private message - so private that you don't even receive it...but just in case it meets the same fate, here is the low down. Took off the differential cover and it was like taking off a goalie's mask. More teeth missing than the NHL. Spider gears 86 the gears. Not pretty. I was informed that changing the gear ratio from 3:07 to 3:73 and adding positrac would not be the worst idea in the world in order to prevent further offensive language. What do you think? Where should I order/buy this stuff from to get the best combination of quality and affordability? Thanks for your knowledge and help. I owe you a beer. Odouls. Joking...thanks again - Matt.[addsig]
 
1043674

with 33"s I'd look for 4.11 gears, it will be much better for off-road and dealing with hills on the road as well.



As far as price best thing to do is call around and ask various shops, this requires lots of special tools and some experience with setting up rear ends.



Probably looking at $800-$1200 depending on the labor rate in your area.





posi's aren't really lockers, they're better then nothing though. (with the exception of the stock trac-lok) When it comes to the rear a normal locker can be bad because each time you go around a turn the locker will want to kick in and it will make your tires chirp and the Jeep to jerk.. not very fun for a daily driver. Selectable lockers are expensive so an LSD aka posi is a good choice.[addsig]
 

1043688

Bob,

About $650 for new 4:11 front and back through Randy's Rack and Pinion out of Washington. New pinion gears, spider gears, bearings, and seals. About another $300 for true trac LSD. Yukon gears. Probably going with it. I have a friend who knows how to do that kind of work, so I hope the amount of beer needed to buy him off will be cheaper than any garage labor. Just can't wait to get it movin' again.[addsig]
 
1043754

Posi's a.k.a. Limited Slip Differentials a.k.a. LSDs aren't "lockers" in any way shape or form...



To keep it simple:

Open Differentials send the power to the wheel with the least amount of resistance.



A locker locks the 2 sides of the axle together so that the power is always split evenly between the wheels but will allow the axles to "unlock" when needed.



An LSD limits the amount of slip allowed by one wheel in order to share the power in a low traction situation but will not work at all in a no traction situation...



Let me know if you have anymore specific questions about differencials and i'll do my best to answer them.



And to the original poster, if it's just the spider gears you can replace them for well under $100 and do the work yourself if you're a mildly competent weekend wrencher...

Not that i would ever discourage anyone from adding a quality traction device...
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1043777

Mr Bill,

Yeah, I could replace the spider gears for about $60, that was the best price I found, but there's one problem...I know how I drive. I haven't been the kindest driver to my first love in life, we hurt the ones we love, and love doing it!!! My concern was with the gear ratio, stock 3:07. With 33's, my driving skills or severe lack of, and temptation to drive over/through whatever gives me that funny feeling, I figure that Bob is dead on with the 4:11 recommendation. Trust me, the lesser expensive remedy was appealing, but it's not appealing to know that it probably will just break again in the future due to the added stress. So...enough wind...I'll upgrade now and give the driveline a break, make it a little easier to spin those tires. Thanks for the reply. Keep a lookout for Sluggo. -Matt.
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