'93 YJ new clutch won't shift

[McLenna]

6cyl / 4.0
Manual
Installing New Clutch Kit


Ok. Finally got everything off, resurfaced the flywheel, installed clutch kit, got all back together BUT now it won't shift with the engine running. The clutch pedal is firm and has consistent pressure. Is it possible that I haven't bled the line enough? I didn't think so based on the pedal pressure. I know the kit was not installed backwards as I triple checked immediately after aligning the clutch. It shifts perfectly when the engine is not running. Help!

 

[McLenna]

So I just gravity bled and had a helper in he cab pushing the clutch methods. No luck but I did notice something: when the bleeder is closed and the clutch is pumped fluid squirts out the master cylinder lids pin hole.

 

[LGR]

I'm having the same issue in my 88 YJ with a NV3550 put in it. I used a sealed clutch/master set up so I know there is no air in the line. I've gotta pump the clutch into gear. I've tried everything aside from taking out the trans again.

You might have air in the clutch line. If you just removed the slave and let it hang while you pulled the trans I don't see how air got into the system.

I'm going to expect my issue has got something to do with the throwout bearing or maybe the pressure plate wasn't tightened properly and maybe a few fingers are not even. You might have a similar issue with those parts.

 

[McLenna]

Do you know why I would be getting fluid out of the top of my MC?

 

[luis]

So I just gravity bled and had a helper in he cab pushing the clutch methods. No luck but I did notice something: when the bleeder is closed and the clutch is pumped fluid squirts out the master cylinder lids pin hole.

Maybe a kink or clogged line? I know it shouldn't squirt out to me thats saying there is pressure but to the point were its building up instead of engaging/disengaging the clutch

 

[McLenna]

I thought the same thing about reverse pressure but if it able to be bled... How could both things be happening?

 

[luis]

I thought the same thing about reverse pressure but if it able to be bled... How could both things be happening?

Maybe its partially bled or there is enough space for fluid to sip by. But when u increase pressure with the valve closed then pressure just builds up. I'm stump too and just throwing things out there that i think would be causing your issues

 

[McLenna]

Thank you! I'll keep at it.

 

[luis]

Fill us in hopefully you find what's wrong

 

[McLenna]

I had the lines professionally bled but that wasnt the problem. The shop says that the clutch was either backwards or damaged during install. Just pulled it out again and it wasn't backwards. Doesn't look damaged either. Is there an easy way to test a concentric slave on my bench before I reinstall? should I look for anything else?

 

[steady.foot]

Check your clutch for warpage with a straight edge. Don't know how it would squirt fluid out the top of the master cylinder but it would explain why it won't shift when engine is running. I have bought rebuilt clutch plates that were warped.

 

[McLenna]

Check your clutch for warpage with a straight edge. Don't know how it would squirt fluid out the top of the master cylinder but it would explain why it won't shift when engine is running. I have bought rebuilt clutch plates that were warped.

Which part should I check? the flywheel? Thank you for the response!

 

[McLenna]

Check your clutch for warpage with a straight edge. Don't know how it would squirt fluid out the top of the master cylinder but it would explain why it won't shift when engine is running. I have bought rebuilt clutch plates that were warped.

Which part should I check? the flywheel? Thank you for the response!

Oh. Right. Clutch plate. Well I bought that new in a kit but i will certainly check it out.

 

[McLenna]

Still having trouble with bleeding. A friend mentioned that there should have been an O-ring in the kit that replaces the one in the lines quick connect. Is this accurate? I didn't have one and the stores don't sell it... I guess air could be getting in that way...

 

[luis]

Still having trouble with bleeding. A friend mentioned that there should have been an O-ring in the kit that replaces the one in the lines quick connect. Is this accurate? I didn't have one and the stores don't sell it... I guess air could be getting in that way...

That could be it. If you have the old o ring then u can take it to either ace hardware or napa and have them match it up. Or napa can have what your looking for.

 

[4gear]

If the o ring was bad it would be leaking fluid as well when you pushed the clutch pedal...fluid has to get in front of the master cylinder piston , so there is a hole that allows this to happen...when you push on the clutch with the lid off master cyl(not recommended) you will spurt fluid up until the piston in master cylinder passes hole, this is when it starts creating pressure to stroke slave cylinder...I have bled many different clutch systems and some are a pain in the but!! Try this...remove master cyl lid, fill resivoir, crack bleeder open until fluid comes out...do not step on clutch pedal when bleeder open!!!!!!!!!!. close bleeder, put lid on master cylinder(after filling).... pump clutch pedal 10-15 times and hold at floor. for a couple seconds then slowly allow it to come back up...remove lid from master cyl, check level, crack bleeder and look to see if you get a spurt of air... if you do repeat...always have master cyl lid off when gravity bleeding and never step on clutch pedal when bleeder open... good luck!!

 

[McLenna]

Thanks! I'll give that a shot. Also, I didn't have instruction when installing the slave (concentric) an now I'm seeing articles detailing 'adjusting' the slave. I didnt know to do that. Could that also be effecting this?

 

[McLenna]

I discovered through a series of rigorous tests that I could only disengage my clutch when my rear driveline was disconnected. Seeing as I had absolutely no idea what that could possibly mean I had to send it to the shop.


Ok. So the shop said my pressure plate bolts were not tight enough. During the first install I used torque and the clutch wouldn't disengage. The second install I noticed the instructions on the pressure plate "hand tighten only" so I did that but the clutch still wouldn't disengage. I don't know how much torque they used but it seemed to work.

So there we have it: if you can only disengage with the rear drive line disconnected then your pressure plate is too loose. Good to know for next time!