'92 Xj help

[K.13]

So I got a few questions for ya bout my jeep.
I finaly figured out I got the D35 axle in it, but the seals need to be changed. And as far as I know, it's not really the strongest axle. I thought I read somwhere that the '88 or older Cherokees had a 40 or 44 in them, is that true? Regardless, where could I get a better upgrade from, without having to change the leaf mounts.
Also, Im lookin to get either a 4.5 or 6.5 inch lift kit. Who makes the best complete kit at a resonable price?
If ya got any more advice for me about my jeep... (like the rad and cooling system) they'd be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading.

 

[FloridaCherokee1988]

Yeah some 87-90 XJ's with the tow package had the 44 in them, but for the most part older Cherokee's had the 35 in them, my own 88' XJ's got a 35c in it(which I was planning to swap for a 44 as well) so if you could find one of those older Cherokee's with a 44 in it you shouldn't have too much trouble doing the swap.

 

[xjmarc]

The 96 and up Chrystler 8.25 is almost as strong as the Dana 44 except it has c-clips. It bolts right in and find some rear disc off a 95-98 Grand Cherokee also a bolt on and the c-clips aren't as big of an issue. For the money the Rock Krawler XFactor lifts are top knotch and I'd rate Rusty's just below them. Save your money and get a long arm you'll thank yourself later. Rubicon express is an excellent kit but only up to 5.5".

 

[K.13]

Thanks for the help. Ive seen afew old xj's kicking around, I'll have to check them out. I was thinking about the 8.25... but I kind of want to steer away from the c-clip, I dunno.. just seems like a problematic area to me. Thanks for the heads up on the kits, xjmarc.

 

[K.13]

Also, how can I tell wich transfer case I have? Looking at afew kits, they will only install with the NP231 case. Aswell as, how can I figure out what gears I have? Is anyone here good with vin decoding?

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Check the round tag attached to the rear cover of the transfer case, it will have the model number on it, either 231 or 242. The 242 has the additional full-time 4h option on the transfer case shifter.

The 8.25 rear axle out of late-model XJ's with the tow package will be a reliable bolt-in option for you, and the c-clips are a non-issue. Look for XJ's with the factory tow receiver and chances are it has the tow package and 8.25 rear.

 

[tow_hook]

So I got a few questions for ya bout my jeep.
I finaly figured out I got the D35 axle in it, but the seals need to be changed. And as far as I know, it's not really the strongest axle. I thought I read somwhere that the '88 or older Cherokees had a 40 or 44 in them, is that true? Regardless, where could I get a better upgrade from, without having to change the leaf mounts.

yep they are out there, normaly run 200$ or so, bolt in deal, but becoming rarer as time goes on... no other upgrade would realy bolt up .. a ford 8.8 would work well, but the spring mounts, and shock mounts would need to be welded on...

Also, Im lookin to get either a 4.5 or 6.5 inch lift kit. Who makes the best complete kit at a resonable price?

4-6" lift and resonable price, don't go hand in hand... the lifts are pricy due to all the items need to get the suspension just right, add in a sye to get rid of your vibs plus tires that fit... and you'll have 2 k into quick... rough county is priced better, but i use r.e.

If ya got any more advice for me about my jeep... (like the rad and cooling system) they'd be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading.

as for the cooling, is it a open or closed system ? you could upgrade a cooling fan, or add water wetter, it's to drop your coolant temp by 10-15 degrees....

 

[K.13]

Thanks again Bounty Hunter. If thats the case, then I assume I have the 231. No full-time High option on my shifter, as well last winter I had the part-time light stay on.... First and last time I saw that light. What does it mean? I think a connection just got frozen or something or other.
And thank you as well Tow Hook. I've been searching kits, and yeah... gonna be pretty pricey. I've found a company over west that sells re-treaded mudders for a decent price, plus they have a pretty high mileage guarantee. So hopefully I'll save money there. I know if I go with the long arm kit, I'll love it... but we don't have anything much (or at all) for rocks or anything that really requires lots of flex round here. Just some pretty deep and stick mud holes. So I'm kind of torn between the long arm opposed to just the lift. I do know that I don't need the rear coil conversion, nor can I afford that. As for my cooling system, I got no clue if it's an open or closed system. But running a electric does sound like a good idea, I also should and most likely need to replace the rad, so that'd probably help some. Also need to replace the head gasket. Over flow tank is always empty, rad level is always full. There is some dried up coolant near the water pump.. and apparently theres a bit of white exhaust when I shift gears.
The thing usually runs at 210... I think maybe once on a hot day stuck in traffic it got close to the red. But if I'm driving, the wind keeps it around 210.... but still, definitely time to fix that, don't need a cracked or warped head.. or wreck the block.
Thanks again guy's.