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Re: 76 CJ5 Restoration gthor92, getting the 76 up and going again is doable. what does the body look like rust wise, and the frame? any frame rot, rust holes in the frame? You can spend big money fixing it or you can do it on the cheap. The jeep you see in my avatar pic was built for around...

Lol, didn't even see them there.. actually my grand daughters, but the passengers may get a kick out of the idea.

here are the pictures I got today

how tall are your shackles, and what do the spring and shackle bushings look like. Post a picture if you can

No track bar on 77. cj,s didn't come with a track bar, some got a sway bar but not all.

sorry, I completely forgot about getting a picture of the tires. will get one today and try to post it.

can you post a pic of the front end? a pic showing the whole front end would be best, stand back from the bumper and kneel down and take a pic and post it.. I would like to see the shackles, tires, tie rods and box. thanks

If it makes you feel better, I am wanting one of those frame for my 69 cj. Previous owner put a chevy 327 in it and moved the grill forward for more room, well now I have no room to mount a winch, (not enough bumper stick out) so I want to use a little longer frame to swap the body over to.

im not sure exactly what year, but around 72 the frames got 3 extra inches up front, from the firewall up. The tub will fit, but if you use your current fenders and hood you may be a little short. With the added 3" those jeeps got longer hoods and fenders. Look at a 60,s jeeps front fenders...

You will need to change one motor mount, I think its the drivers side but not sure. The motor mounts bolt in so it should be to tough. You will also have to run the fuel line down the opposite frame rail to the carb as the line connection to the carb is on opposite sides, again pretty simple...

Mine is leaking slowly as well, been for about a year or so now. That being said, I would fix it when you can. I had a rear main blow on a s-10 blazer once and the whole thing blew out leaving a big cloud of smoke and a engine with no oil, not good. lol

Any update on this?

I don't how to tell. As I understand, it doesn't do any good to start using synthetic oil on a older engine as the engine is already broke in, wore in, how ever you want to say it. Its used and switching to a oil that prevents wear is kinda useless now. If it were me I would just use regular...

welcome, the cj is becoming popular on this board.. look forward to seeing pictures.

made mine out of aluminum as well, no glove box though.

get all your lines away from a heat source, exhaust, manifolds. you can buy header wrap and wrap your lines, local auto store might have it.

glad you got it going, sorry it wasn't the module. it sounded like it.

You have posted a distributor that is nothing like what we are discussing. I just did some researching and the first vacuum and centrifugal advance system developed was in 1931 by Chrysler. Even that is a different design that the later type. You try your hardest to try and prove someone wrong...

Your amc20 probably isn't the best axle for hauling and pulling a boat out of the water. I recommend looking into one piece axle shafts for it. The amc20 axle is a two piece design and a big nut holds the hub on, if you look at the end of your axle you should see a big nut. One piece is MUCH...

Yes you can drive with the hubs locked. you will use slightly more gas and probably feel a vibration at higher speeds. My dad bought a new 82 cj7 and i recall the manual saying to drive it in 4wd once a month for about a mile or drive with the hubs locked in to keep all parts lubed and moving.