Search results

You need to Plastigage your rod and main bearings, and you should always replace the rear main seal when changing a crank. When you install the rear main seal be sure to use an Anaerobic Sealant on the main cap flange surface. This is a must if you don't want the rear main seal to leak. Be...

He was a man of many broken body parts.... :cry:

No, the ear is cracked in 4 places. I'd TIG weld it, but the metal is pretty weak.

I need a 92-up 32RH/999TF/904TF etc...transmission core/empty case for my 89 YJ 258 to 4.0L change over. My trans is excellent mechanically, but the threaded starter bolt hole in the bellhousing is cracked :( I'm in Ohio, about 80 miles west of Erie PA. PM me if you have a bad trans or empty...

I got the TJ running last weekend, and so far I've put over 200 miles on it. Decking the block, and installing the Kieth Black .020 over pistons made a big difference powerwise. The little 4 banger has a lot more pep now. I still have a few odds and ends to tie up, but otherwise she runs better...

Yeah :lol: not to mention all of the rear axles and tires I'd have to change on a regular basis...

I considered V8-ing it, but with the way gas prices are I decided to keep the 4cyl. I don't need a powerhouse, just a good solid daily driver for the woman..

Purchase Price $1500 Machine work $ 750 Rebuild kit $ 375 Misc $ 100 ____________________ Total= $2725 Not bad huh? ...and yes it does still has a hint of new car smell.

I got my engine back from the machine shop Friday and spent the weekend assembling it. I used a 95' YJ short block punched .020 over,and the 98' TJ's head. I installed Keith Black pistons, a Mellings oil pump, cam, lifters, timing set. It should have a little more pep now :lol: I have...

My buddy's XJ started that, and it ended up being the crank sensor. Check the crank sensor.

If you want a pro-shine use Race Glaze. The body shop I worked for used it, and it does some amazing sh1t! If you want cheap and dirty use Scratch Out. I used this on my XJ with instant results.

That's a tough call. There are many causes for bent pushrods. Weak timing chain: I've seen this a few times, but not on Jeep engines. The chain gets weak, flexes, and the pushrods bend on the compression stroke. My S-10 Blazer engine did this on a road trip, it sucked. Loose rocker arms...

Thanks for the thumbs up guys.... Tonite I disassembled the engine. The #1 rod bearing is spun. When I took it apart there was no bearing attached to the cap at all, just burnt, case hardened junk. The other 3 rod bearings are on there way out too. They all have blue heat scorch marks, and...

Pictures

I know, I'm still in disbelief myself. I thought $5,000 was a good deal for my 99' XJ with 53,000 miles. This deal blows that one away. I bought it off of a local Deputy Sheriff too boot. His wife wanted it out of the driveway asap.

I pulled the engine today. It took longer to clean up the garage good enough to start working than it did to take the engine out. My friend took some pics. He's going to email them to me tonite. I'll post them when I get them. This TJ is very clean underneath. It needs brake, fuel, and...

Does it run? Those early V-6's ran pretty good. Any pic's? Price?

The guy told me his wife ran it out of oil 2 yrs ago. It still starts right up, runs, drives, stops with the e-brake lol, but the engine knocks like a MoFo; one of the rod bearings let go. They don't have the money for a new motor, so I got it.

I bought a 98 TJ yesterday for $1500 with a bad 2.5 motor, and bad brake and transmission lines from sitting. It has 55,000 original miles, 3 Tops, Hood Bra, CD, Foglights, Headlight/Tailight blackouts, etc. I've wanted a TJ for a while now, and I got it! It's a very nice Jeep...I plan on...

Agreed, I bought my 99' XJ With 53,000 on it and it's been doing the stop and go clunking since day one. Upon further inspection I noticed some wasted bushings. There's a lot of stress on those bushings. I'm going to buy a complete front Poly Bushing kit for it. My friend put one on his XJ, and...