suspention lift combo questions...

[BigBlackJeep]

1049350

Also, I think if you have the confidence to take on the SOA, then I think you should be able to swap gears. We have done it being total novices to gears, just take your time and you should be able to do it- just ask any questions that you might have about doing the gears, there is lots of info on the 'net about it too.



Hope this helps-[addsig]

 

[Joopin]

1049360

I have heard that if you don't get those gears exactly right, you have to open it up, realign the gears, close it up and test it... repeat until correct... I wish I did have the confidence to do that! As for the SOA, I am going to make all the brackets and any other fab. parts I need this weekend... at least I will have that out of the way for when I do go the whole 9 yds. [addsig]

 

[Snitty]

1049385

Hey there Joopin.... I did the SOA with BBJ.... It was not a tough process at all... I would suggest doing it. There is no reason to switch gears right now.... I see you are planning on going 35's... whether you change the gears or not... the axle is still weak... if you don't change gears, it will be tough to move. If you do change the gears.... there will be enough torque to move the tires... but will be also getting close to enough torque to snap or twist the axles, especially if you are stuck, going uphill, always hoarking on it, or have lockers. I would suggest going 33's as of now. I see you don't plan on doing too much monster wheelin... 33's will be more than fine if that is the case... and they are a lot safer on the axle. AND... if you DO decide to change the gears anyway, it is not tough... I broke my ring and pinion last year.... I got a donor axle.... and being COMPLETELY new to it, never doing it before, seeing inside it, or even knowing what was in the differential and how it works.... I swapped out the gears myself with NO problem whatsoever. As far as the driveshaft.... drop the t-case 1.5 - 2 inches... and point your pinion so it is almost parallel to the output shaft of the Tcase... not quite pointing right at it.... but enough so that both inversal joints will be at the same angle. But... you will want to go SYE eventually.... no doubt there. Any questions... you can reach me on AOL IM.... TheBaztard[addsig]

 

[far_right]

1049388

wow snitty if you got the pinion at the right mesurments and depth im impressed!!!

[addsig]

 

[Snitty]

1049395

actually it was guesswork with a little trial and error.... the professional way[addsig]

 

[BigBlackJeep]

1049408

Sounds like you are on the right track with the SOA- making things ahead of time would make things easier when it comes time to install it all. As to the gears, they can be intimidating, but it is something that needs to be right. If they are installed wrong, and ran for too long, consider them junk- or paperweights, one of the two.



I would keep an eye out in swap sheets/ebay for the possibility of cheap tires or even if you are lucky, some axles out of an old bronco-[addsig]

 

[jeepmaster]

1049468

snitty and BBJ - since you're both here lol, lets say i get my kit and am installing it. if its a kit im NOT gonna have to weld/fab anything right? i know you guys did yours for real cheap fab'ing a lotta the stuff, but i dont have those skills or resources. this kit claims to be a bolt on and with a new SYE and driveshaft will it be? or am i gonna have to find someone that can weld? and how much bigger springs would i need to bump my SOA up to 7 inches? how much are those ~thanks~[addsig]

 

[Snitty]

1049492

you'll probably need about 1.5 - 2" springs to bump to 7 inches.. or you can go with a 1.5 inch shackle lift... that would bring you about there.... with the bolt on kits.... MAKE SURE you take your time and make sure everything is torqued correctly. Since you are using only the strentgh of shearing, bending, twisting, and snapping bolts, rods, and pins, rather than combining the actual matter of the different metal pieces.... you have a lot more chance of parts slipping apart. I'm not saying that they WILL... but make sure everything is cleaned before assembled.... if you have rust or dirt under a piece, then you bolt it on, then the rust/dirt works its way out, you have space between your pieces that you didn't have before... therefore a looser bond of the parts.... the two keys here are to make sure every part is torqued down well... and retorque yor parts after the first 50 miles... then go again after another 50 miles... after that... you should be ok... and using lockwashers or even a threadlock compound would not hurt. I'm not saying this next suggestion is totally needed.... but if you are taking your axles completely off (recommended for inspection/cleaning reasons).... then I'm sure any bum with a welder would toss a bead down your mating surfaces for a good price. Best of wishes for you... and I hope it works well for you.... I am actually really looking to see how a bolt on system holds together. In theory, by design, it seems as a solid enough method.[addsig]

 

[BigBlackJeep]

1049555

It sounds like it should be. If not, there are usually people around that can come by and see what needs to be made. As to the driveshaft, I would also drop the t-case if that is not included with the kit. This can be done with either square stock steel, (we used 1.5"), or you could just buy some big hard rubber grommets or some other type of steel that would lower it. Also, steel tubing would work as well. I prefered the square stock since it filled the entire area that the t-case was dropped and didn't make the drop look completely obvious- you can see it here on my page all about BBJ-BigBlackJeep-



Hope this helps....[addsig]

 

[Tug-n-pull]

1049561

Nice Page there bigblackjeep! Tug[addsig]