fixed my dieseling problem

[superj]

the bolts holding the lowest adapter to the intake were loose. i was messing around today and grabbed the carb for some od reason and it moved around. i was like "what the hell!!". had to take the whole thing apart to tihten those bolts and since i was in there, i replaced gaskets and used a very thin layer of rtv to create the final seal. after all was said and done, the jeep no longer diesels.

now i have to readjust everything. it idles at 900 in neutral and 500 in gear.


while i had it off, i looked in the bottom of the intake and its got some weird shizznit down in there. check it out

now, i can think of two reason for those being there, they are both probably wrong but i'll tell ya'll anyway.

1) they are there to cause some strange turbulence to mix fuel in some odd situation that i have never come across in any other vehicle.

2) they are there to catch crap i drop in the intake so it doesn't roll down the intake runner.

i have no idea why but i am going with option two because i am a huge fan of dropping crap in the carb while screwing around just to make my day less fun. :x i do it fairly regulalry so i can improve my engine disassembly times.

 

[superj]

never mind, it started doing it again today.

all vacuum lines are replaced and all bolts are now tight. i am blaming that dang weber

 

[mcmud]

Don't know if I would blame that wanna be 'Weber' DGEC.
Look to the installer/tuner.

Had you purchased a real Weber you would have been instructed not to apply RTV as a sealant, use locking compound on the studs and bolts and then torque the bolts to a specified value, along with an accurate means of dialing it in.

Now with that said... since I recall a previous exchange of info, if this time you want help, simply ask and I'll try once more.

 

[superj]

yes, its not the real weber. i would've went with a weber 38.

you don't rtv between all those layers of adapters? i understand in a place where tolerances were tighter, you wouldn't need them, like on bmws and most german vehicles, but rtv is kept in business by american auto companies. for some reason our flat surfaces aren't really flat.


but, what ideas do you got? i will apply them when i swap on the motorcraft carb wednesday. i am just waiting on the adapter to come into town since no one in town carries it.

its funny that the solex made weber is such a piece of junk. solex is stock on so many vehicles and they run forever with the same amount of upkeep as any other carb. i wonder what happened on this carb? i know real webers are solid great carbs from my bmw. and i know the motorcraft is from my 65 mustang. even stock solex are solid, was a vw guy for many years. its just this particular 34 version that appears to not do to well, from all the reading i have done.


i am going to google the instructions for setting this thing again and adjust the time properly. maybe, since the leaks seem to be taken care of now, i can get the neutral idle and the in gear idle closer. they are currently 300 rpm off and it bugs me. makes me think i still have a vacuum leak somewhere.

 

[Don Stephens]

What you see at the bottom of the intake manifold are the pins for the manifold heater to preheat the fuel. You should see a red wire going from it to the manifold heater relay, it is also connected to the choke heater from that relay for use at engine startup.

 

[superj]

hmm, was wondering also if it was that but that was lower down my list of things it would be since mine is not plugged in