Oil pressure

[BigWooly]

My first time to post so hello, thanks in advance, and I hope this issue hasn't already been covered but all I've got is an iPhone for Internet and didn't see it in first 400 threads. I recently replaced my camshaft synchronizer and now I've got the popular issue of no oil pressure at stop lights. I've replaced sending unit, no dice. Wanted to know if pressure could be thrown off if synchronizer is off just a bit. Doesnt make any more noise than normal when pressure drops. Pressure rises with rpms. Oil pump replaced by mechanic first thing when I bought jeep used last may.
Only mechanical gauge I found on my lunch break today goes to 100psi so not really much help on low end.
Thanks

2000 tj wrangler
160000 mi
4.0 I6

 

[SteelHeadz]

My suggestion is to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the sending unit port. Monitor the pressure on the low and high to determine if the problem is in the engine or on the cluster.

 

[BigWooly]

Also forgive my ignorance but how do I get all the air out of mechanical gauge hose. I've tried loosening fitting to bleed it out but still can't get all the air out. I've read air In the line will trash reading. Is this true or am I just a tard?

 

[BigWooly]

I've seen that on several threads here and all over the web. I'm working on that right now. My main question is if any one knows if the cam sync/opdu can affect oil presure gauge.

 

[SteelHeadz]

Also forgive my ignorance but how do I get all the air out of mechanical gauge hose. I've tried loosening fitting to bleed it out but still can't get all the air out. I've read air In the line will trash reading. Is this true or am I just a tard?

After running the engine for a minute or two, it will purge the air out of the line.

 

[SteelHeadz]

I've seen that on several threads here and all over the web. I'm working on that right now. My main question is if any one knows if the cam sync/opdu can affect oil presure gauge.

The synchronization between the cam and crank will not affect the oil pressure, it's the engine rpm's that ultimately has the control over the pressure variation from the oil pump. The oil pump is directly operated through the camshaft gear from the distributor shaft. IF the camshaft gear is worn out or missing a tooth, it will affect the timing with the oil pump operation and this usually will have other driveability issues primarily, misfires and lack of performance.

 

[BigWooly]

Thanks steelheadz. That's exactly what I needed to know. Gonna try lower pressure gauge this pm and see if I can get some piece of mind.
I wanted a jeep for over 20 yrs. Now I've finally got one and I'm realizing I should have spent some of that time learning how to do more than change oil.

 

[BigWooly]

I got a lower pressure gauge installed
today and it's reading 0psi at idle.
Every time I shut off engine I see air in the hose to the gauge. Is that normal or does that mean I've got an air leak.
Is there a way to test oil pump to make sure it hasn't failed without dropping the pan? Its only 10 mo old.
I'm starting to worry the cam bearings could be bad but I don't have the know how or the cash right now to know for sure.

 

[SteelHeadz]

It's pretty normal for air to get trapped in the line but even then, it should circulate out with the oil pushing through the line. If there was a question of the pump being faulty, it being only 10 months old, what type of warranty do you have on it from whomever installed it?

 

[BigWooly]

Warranty is good till may 24th. Guess I'll have to throw some more money at moss and hope that fixes it.
If it turns out not to be the oil pump am I screwed? Will I be looking at an engine swap?

 

[SteelHeadz]

If it's still under warranty, they should fork out every penny to replace that faulty unit. The only other thing i can think of that would cause a low oil pressure would be worn bearings or if it has one, oil pressure releif valve. Now, IF they were the ones who diagnosed it incorrectly , i would say that they should be held at least partially liable for the expense to fix it correctly.

 

[BigWooly]

They said the part would be covered but not labor. But if it is in fact a bad pump I believe it's due to the part not the installer. They do pretty good work but they also let you know about it in the bill.
If it's the bearings I guess I need to look into a new engine. I'm assuming the stock Dana 35 wouldn't hold up well to a stroker?