Are these a copy of a lock rite or what? I had never heard of them until reading a few on this website. They are definately cheaper than any other locker I've seen. How well do they hold up? The first few times I read about them on here I thought you guy's were refering to the arb air locker. It wasn't until some one posted a link to the aussie website that I knew different.
Aussie locker
- Thread starter big_o_tom
- Start date
best bang for the buck locker. the design is similar to a lock rite, but all lunch box lockers share a common design. the engagement cam on the ausie is far better and deeper. I also like how they use a single spring for immediate engagement as opposed to the double spring for progressive engagement that some LBL use, in turn does make it a bit louder (clicking when regular driving)
Depending on the axle your installing this in, you will probably not re-use the thrust washer. (arguable difference in strength)
if you have a CJ, regardless of what LBL you put in, look at getting a new or upgraded center pin for you diff. the factory original one probably has a lot of years on it and they tend to shear with LBL.
Down side of them, the instructions are not super clear, but if you have ever been inside a diff or have a small amount of mechanical ability, you can easily figure it out.
Depending on the axle your installing this in, you will probably not re-use the thrust washer. (arguable difference in strength)
if you have a CJ, regardless of what LBL you put in, look at getting a new or upgraded center pin for you diff. the factory original one probably has a lot of years on it and they tend to shear with LBL.
Down side of them, the instructions are not super clear, but if you have ever been inside a diff or have a small amount of mechanical ability, you can easily figure it out.
xjmarc
New member
Ran them front and rear and loved them. They are a bit bigger than lockrights and unlike my old lockrights, I never sheared the pins in them. Ran them for about 4 years without issues and now a buddy of mine runs them and they are still going strong. Spartans are another lesser know lbl that works great and they are made by Yukon Gear.
Red Mutt Ranch
New member
Hey now that's great! How do they work on street with 37 inch tires. I have been looking for a locker for my rear axle 12 bolt on my CJ5 full width rocker that I also want to drive on the street. Would this be a good option?
jakec:
Assuming you was running selectable hubs as opposed to driveflanges, look at D60 mini spool or a full spool. My preference is a full spool, it's the strongest differential you could put into an axle. with selectable hubs, you will never know it's there on the street and have 100% locked on the trail. depending on your tire size, you might want to definately consider at a minimum hydro assist as sppoled steering axles can be a ***** to turn when your in tough situation.
a mini spool acts just like a regular spool, but installs like a LBL would. a full spool will probably set you back $100-$175 depending where you get it. mini spools about the same
Assuming you was running selectable hubs as opposed to driveflanges, look at D60 mini spool or a full spool. My preference is a full spool, it's the strongest differential you could put into an axle. with selectable hubs, you will never know it's there on the street and have 100% locked on the trail. depending on your tire size, you might want to definately consider at a minimum hydro assist as sppoled steering axles can be a ***** to turn when your in tough situation.
a mini spool acts just like a regular spool, but installs like a LBL would. a full spool will probably set you back $100-$175 depending where you get it. mini spools about the same
jakec
New member
i think i will jps4jeep. i am running selectable hubs so that sounds good. im gonna run 38s or 40s. if a mini spool installs like a lbl ill probably go with that because i cant set up gears and i have an open diff so i can install the mini spool. i dont have many rocks around here so itll be mostly mud. do you think it would hold up? ive ran d44s with 38s on a fullsize ford and it did good but it wasnt locked.
I have had a time the last few with axles and stuff and just about fed up with it. Here's the story... I got my jeep in '98 put a new shaft in the T-18 and the x-case, bought new 4.10's for the rear, had both axle housing rebuilt with new bearing's and such. With in 6 month's the passenger side rear axles came out or broke 3 time's (amc model 20, moser 1 piece axles, lock rite locker, 4.10 gear's). The last time I fixed it I used some shim's, drilled and put a grease fitting near the wheel bearing, and drove it for about 4 or 5 month's. While pulling my small bassboat home from the lake one day the axle and 33" tire came out at 55 mph, needless to say I didn't fix that axle anymore. I put a dana 44 in it with 3.07 gear's and it in 2wd from then on out. I've been trying to get it back to 4wd for the last few week's. I have a '66 Jeep truck with dana 44's and 4.10 gears that I was going to swap into my cj. I thought I could swap the r@p gears, diff case but not the spider gear's(the truck is 19 spline, the cj is 30 spline), but it wont work. The 30 spline wont fit into the 19 spline diff case, now I don't know which way to go without droppong a ton of cash to fix it!
There are only two ways to loose a shaft like that on a semi floating non-c clip axle adn neither of them are you due to your housing.
1. either the backing plate bolts are loosening up and falling off
2. the axle shaft is not being retained in the tube by the bearing.
I am thinking #2, the wrong bearing may have been placed on the shaft or the shaft its self is not the correct diameter, a thousandth of an inch is all it takes. the drum is probably what keeps the shaft splines engaged for such a preior of time, partial spline engagment and/or outward wandering shaft (bearing is not riding on the bearing race) is probably what is causing your broken shafts.
the cheapest and most effective solution would be to get new 1 piece shafts and new bearings and run them. when you have the bearing pressed on, have the machine shop measure the amount of force applied to the bearing to pres it on.
1. either the backing plate bolts are loosening up and falling off
2. the axle shaft is not being retained in the tube by the bearing.
I am thinking #2, the wrong bearing may have been placed on the shaft or the shaft its self is not the correct diameter, a thousandth of an inch is all it takes. the drum is probably what keeps the shaft splines engaged for such a preior of time, partial spline engagment and/or outward wandering shaft (bearing is not riding on the bearing race) is probably what is causing your broken shafts.
the cheapest and most effective solution would be to get new 1 piece shafts and new bearings and run them. when you have the bearing pressed on, have the machine shop measure the amount of force applied to the bearing to pres it on.
I'm definately not going to use a model 20, even thought I have 2 or 3 good housing's, 3.54,4.10 gears, good spider gear's, and one good moser 1 piece axle. I'm trying to get this dana 44 together. I'm either going to sell a bunch of parts or take them all to the recycle plant to got the money to fix these 44's.
xjmarc
New member
I've yet to find a mini spool for a 60 either only full spools. If you don't want to mess with gears you can get a Spartan Locker. They are made by Yukon and work just like an Aussie and are a bit stronger than a Lockright. And they come in 30 and 35 spline versions for the 60. Or you can just be lazy like me and break out the welder. I call it my Hobart locker cause I don't have a Lincoln.
jakec
New member
im gonna check on those xjmarc. i hear ya on the lincoln locker but i still want to be able to drive it on the road. i dont have a tow rig or trailer. my rear 60 is a 30 spline so hopefully i can get a lbl of some kind. jps4jeep your right i would much rather change a hub than pull the shafts myself.
