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Bittersweet Success!!! I just got back from AutoZone where I had the Ignition Module tested and it failed. I ordered a new one and it should here tomorrow afternoon. I'll post tomorrow if it works. Thanks everybody!!

AAAHHHH!!!!! This is killing me. I thought I'd found the problem with the coil, but it looks like that's not the case now, with what you're saying Ken. Right now, I'm out of town, but I'll be back to Ft. Polk tomorrow. To answer your questions though. . . 1. I'm not sure what a spark box is...

Here, this one is for the engine controls of a '90 2.5L. I made the picture huge, so after you click on the thumbnail, click it again when it opens in a new window. Let me know if you need the schematic for the body and fuse box too.

I just read online another way to test the coil with a multimeter. From post to post should read between .75-.81 of resistance and from one post to the main plug should be between 10k-11k of resistance. For the former I got .6, and for the latter I got 8.8k.

Okay, after a second read I'm confused at what a blinking light means. You say that one "should blink" but then you say, "if it blinks you have a bad coil." In any case, I took my test light to it while my wife turned the key. Both had a weak light when she turned the key on, and one of them...

Ken, that's a great piece of informantion, I'll do that and let ya'll know how it comes out.

Mikey, I just did the continuity test on the resistor wire we've been talking about and my multimeter beeped at me, it's still intact. Anyother problems you can think of. Paul, to answer your question, no, the battery never sounded weak when I was trying to start it back up. I know it's good...

Okay, is this the wire you're talking about?

I think I worded this poorly...I did put an E-coil in and I'm thinking that is what's gone bad. I put the old coil back in, for trouble shooting purposes, just to see if the engine would at least turn over for me...but it didn't. Another part of my concern was if that, as a troubleshooting...

I think my ECU is in good shape, but then again...it is a Jeep. Yes, I am talking about the TeamRush upgrade.

Terry, I did the upgrade with the E92 coil about a two months ago in my 89 4.2 and its been running great until today. The Jeep died on me while I was on my way back from work. A co-worker and I pulled it back home and I took the multimeter to it. Zero Volts at the pigtail wires with the key...

No, there's nothing there. Ya'll see that I have an 89 4.2 L right?

I don't think I have a speed / crank sensor; I have a 4.2 L carb engine, no fuel injection. If I'm wrong, let me know where I can find it in the Jeep, and I'll go check it.

Ok, I just got my jeep towed back to the house with a friend of mine and got to do some troubleshooting before the rain started. I put my timing light on my coil to distro wire and got no blink. So, to answer your question, no, I'm not getting spark. I pulled the pigtail off the coil and put my...

My jeep died for no particular reason on the road back from work today. I was going along at about 50 mph and it just shut off; no warning at all. Tried to get it started back up but it wouldn't. Tried again about 5 minutes later and it started like it always does; then I got about 100 yards...

you don't remember which one do you?

Alacran...that site is great! Thanks a lot....

Could be 180 off?

I have a carter on mine, which is a rebuild of the stock, and it works great. It takes a lot of work with the vacuum system to get it right though. I think most the guys on here will tell you to get rid of it for an MC2100 carb. Much less maintenance with that one required, once you get it nuttered.

make sure all your grounds are good first, before you start replacing stuff. I've had the same symptoms with my 89 4.2 before on a few different occassions. Turned out to be either the grounding wire was rotten from the fire wall to the block, the negative cable on the battery was loose, or the...