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There are two lines going from my gas tank to the engine compartment I pulled one off, and plugged my smoke machine in so that the smoke would blow back towards the gas tank.

For the better part of a year now, I've had a check engine light on. The code referenced a minor leak in my EVAP system. I hunted around but never could track it down. I finally decided to get serious and purchased a smoke tester off Amazon. AutoLine Pro Automotive Smoke Machine Leak Detector...

according to that page, it's one of these two: Other Name: Bolt, Retainer to Case, M8x1.25x25; Idler Pulley Other Name: Bolt Hex Flange Head M10x1.50x35; Idler Pulley The diagrams should point out which is which.

I think I may have found what you're looking for: https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/oem-jeep-wrangler-idler_pulley_bolt.html They seem to list the bolt measurements.

Do you have a 4 or 6 cylinder?

Are you able to pull any codes with a scan tool?

I'm not familiar with Grand Cherokees - when you replace the heater core, did you have to remove the entire dash to get to it? I think you are onto something with the wires that were pulled from the brake transmission shift interlock. If that isn't right, the truck will not start. I would go...

I was changing out the water pump on my 2005 Wrangler when I happened to spin the AC pulley. To my ear it sounds gravely, and there is the tiniest bit of play in it. The bad part is that I don't have a basis for comparison. How does this sound to you guys?

Welcome. Do you have a Jeep? If so, what type?

Good luck dropping that pan, it was a pain on my 2005. I had to remove the two cats in order to drop the exhaust pipe down enough. Hopefully that won't be the case for yours. Are you going to do the rear main seal while you have the pan out? The seal itself is cheap enough. Take some photos...

As a follow up, Rockauto is recommending that I also replace the fan clutch. They don't offer the Mopar like this, only the Gates Is this necessary, or would I just be replacing my stock fan clutch with a possibly inferior one...

There's a pink puddle under my Jeep that feels slick on my fingers . Looks like my water pump is leaking. I see that rock auto has a gates water pump for $43 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=948891&cc=1430906&pt=2208&jsn=1406 And a Mopar one for $187...

The first, and only time I previously changed the fluid, I dropped the pan and changed the filter. One of the nutserts was loose in the frame, so I couldn't unbolt the transmission skid fully. I was close to quitting before I thought to get all the other bolts out, leaving the last one in...

A bad thermostat would do it. I imagine that a bad water pump would as well.

I had to send the butler out to whatever store isells paper napkins, but here we go. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

It's frustrating that there are no codes, that would make things much easier. How are the spark plugs and wires?

As a followup to this thread, I recently purchased an "automatic fluid extractor", and it makes short work of changing the fluid. You won't get to visually inspect the pan for metal, or change the filter, but it does make things very easy.

I just wrapped up the fluid change, using Valvoline synthetic ATF+4. I love this fluid extractor. It made things super easy. To answer my own previous question, the internet says that non-synthetic and synthetic ATF can mix together fine. The important thing for my trans is that it's ATF+4...

What's the go-to ATF for my transmission? I believe that I put Castrol ATF+4 last time around. I won't be changing it all, so whatever I put in will need to be compatible with what is already in there. I see they have some Valvoline synthetic ATF+4 at the local Advance Auto...

Man, you must have really had that thing stuck!