spring over question

89 jeep yj

New member
I want to put a spring over kit on my 89 yj that has a 2.5 rough country lift on it. My question is will I have to buy other parts than just the kit? Thank you in advance.
 

hey i did a soa kit on my 95 yj alot of work went into it depending on how high your total hight is you will need a slip yoke eliminator kit. i had to do a motor drop and a transmission drop so the drive shaft would work also you might also have to change the pinion angle to get a better drive line angle if you have more questions and want to tell me what came with the kit my name is kevin and just leave a message
 
You're gonna have a lot standing in your way if you use those leaves on your SOA.

For starters you gotta deal with steering. Using stock leaves you can get away with just adjusting the steering to the correct length, but with any lift at all your drag link will hit the leaves on right hand turns. Also you'll probably have a huge amount of bumpsteer because of the angle your drag link will be at.

Second, you're gonna have to deal with driveshafts. Using your 2.5" leaves you will need to get an SYE and a driveshaft for the rear, as well as one for the front probably. You may be able to avoid this by getting your front shaft lengthened and shortening a XJ front shaft to go in the rear. (Not sure what years right off hand).

You're also gonna need to address your brakelines if they don't come with the kit.

You need to be able to weld as well. You have to cut the old perches off and put new ones on. You need to adjust the pinion angle to run correctly with an SYE as well
 
You're gonna have a lot standing in your way if you use those leaves on your SOA.

For starters you gotta deal with steering. Using stock leaves you can get away with just adjusting the steering to the correct length, but with any lift at all your drag link will hit the leaves on right hand turns. Also you'll probably have a huge amount of bumpsteer because of the angle your drag link will be at.

Second, you're gonna have to deal with driveshafts. Using your 2.5" leaves you will need to get an SYE and a driveshaft for the rear, as well as one for the front probably. You may be able to avoid this by getting your front shaft lengthened and shortening a XJ front shaft to go in the rear. (Not sure what years right off hand).

You're also gonna need to address your brakelines if they don't come with the kit.

You need to be able to weld as well. You have to cut the old perches off and put new ones on. You need to adjust the pinion angle to run correctly with an SYE as well
See! Other than that, Piece of cake,no biggie.:lol:
 

Gonna be about 8" of lift with those springs setup SOA, do you really need that much?

You're going to need a high-angle CV rear driveshaft. I use a standard CV driveshaft and it is almost at its max operating angle with stock springs SOA. I've got the longest driveshaft setup possible as I have the 2.5L 5spd and a super short SYE. Any other stock drivetrain is longer.
 
wow these guys are all over the place i did a tally of what it all took and how much stuf was for doing my soa in all it cost around a grand because i am a welder and i had access to welders and presses which made it alot easier. in all my jeep is lifted total of 15 inches and yes its all suspension took a while but ti got it done. anyways you can pick up longer braded brake lines from four wheel parts no biggie i actually have a couple sets here. the steering i did last and it was my smart move because until you know how high you end up you might not have a long enough steering arm. you will need the sye kit and a cv driveshaft for the rear not nessisory for the front. pinion angle has to be pretty close or you will have some wobble with the drive shaft. if you are going to use it as a daily driver you are going to need some sway bars they have some cool stuff that you can lock dont remember off hand but i can send you info. but all in all it took me about a total of a month because of waiting for parts not to bad runs and drives great just dont lift it to high you will run into alot more problems like i did but with me i would just fab it to work and did a pretty good job have another one to do this summer but have fun.
 

wow these guys are all over the place i did a tally of what it all took and how much stuf was for doing my soa in all it cost around a grand because i am a welder and i had access to welders and presses which made it alot easier. in all my jeep is lifted total of 15 inches and yes its all suspension took a while but ti got it done. anyways you can pick up longer braded brake lines from four wheel parts no biggie i actually have a couple sets here. the steering i did last and it was my smart move because until you know how high you end up you might not have a long enough steering arm. you will need the sye kit and a cv driveshaft for the rear not nessisory for the front. pinion angle has to be pretty close or you will have some wobble with the drive shaft. if you are going to use it as a daily driver you are going to need some sway bars they have some cool stuff that you can lock dont remember off hand but i can send you info. but all in all it took me about a total of a month because of waiting for parts not to bad runs and drives great just dont lift it to high you will run into alot more problems like i did but with me i would just fab it to work and did a pretty good job have another one to do this summer but have fun.

What did you do for steering?
 
i made a S arm didnt take long. i started with a piece of 1/4inch rod and bent it to what i tought i needed then had the ends threaded.
 

i made a S arm didnt take long. i started with a piece of 1/4inch rod and bent it to what i tought i needed then had the ends threaded.
I guess if your suicidal, this is the way to go in syle huh?:cry::shock::lol::lol:
 
Somebody say scary steering:
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I didn't know they made ubolts this long:
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And last but not least, chrome springs for some blings:
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I hate to jump in, but to avoid making an "S" rod, you would have to install flat top knuckles, right? Or is there a different method?

What the heck is that third picture? :shock: I've seen lowriders with more ground clearance.
 
yea i forgot to add that i made the real s arm out of 1 1/2" dom tubing lol for got to say that. but yea i am sucidal on the trail


I really don't care what you make it out of. They're just a bad idea period. If you want me to go through the math for you I can show you why.
 

I hate to jump in, but to avoid making an "S" rod, you would have to install flat top knuckles, right? Or is there a different method?

What the heck is that third picture? :shock: I've seen lowriders with more ground clearance.

Yes, histeer is the preferred method. There are companies that make solutions for the Dana 30 which don't require you to install flat top knuckles or replace your axles. Some are better than others, there is stuff out there though.
 
I really don't care what you make it out of. They're just a bad idea period. If you want me to go through the math for you I can show you why.


oh please go ahead i build stuff more complex than a S arm i have been a welder fabricator for 8 years building water towers and mining equipment. but please go into detail for me on how a S arm is a bad idea.:D
 
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